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Thread: plumbing...

  1. #1
    Junior Member willsnano's Avatar
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    plumbing...

    Well, Now I have my stand completed, the next step is to figure out how I am going to plumb my display tank.
    In the past, the plumbing was a 1 1/2" x 12" pvc stand pipe that was housed by an acrylic overflow around it. It was positioned at the center - back of the tank and worked well. The only issue I had was that sylicone does not hold well to acrylic. None the less... it was gravity fed to the top of the berlin wet dry filter below the tank with a piece of flex tube.
    I believe my glass bottom on the tank I have now is tempered. What makes me suggest it is - is that if one looks closely at it and at an angle, you could see identical markings of some sort that are semi transparent in the glass. I am not exactly sure but I believe they were put there to let the owner know it is tempered glass and therefore DO NOT drill.
    What I am going to be using for my return pump is the Mag Drive 700 series pump and ridgid pvc tubing. I believe is 1/2" connections on this perticular pump.
    The other thing I am going to be using is an insump protiene skimmer. Not sure what make yet, but that's irrelivant.
    Any suggestions on how to get the proper plumbing on this perticular set up? Gravity or other?
    Cheers,
    Will

  2. #2
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    sounds like you're on the right track :b15:

    the silicone used by manufacturers for overflows is usually glass / acrylic compatible, we just have a really hard time finding it for DIY ( or its $$$$ ).

    do you know the tank manufacturer?? if not, look at the bottom pane with polarized sun glasses, then you'll know for sure but i would assume it is tempered.

    is your tank drilled?? ( if yes what size holes )


    please also tell us some more about the tank and sump ( size etc.... )
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


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  3. #3
    Junior Member willsnano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4twenty View Post
    sounds like you're on the right track :b15:

    the silicone used by manufacturers for overflows is usually glass / acrylic compatible, we just have a really hard time finding it for DIY ( or its $$$$ ).

    do you know the tank manufacturer?? if not, look at the bottom pane with polarized sun glasses, then you'll know for sure but i would assume it is tempered.

    is your tank drilled?? ( if yes what size holes )


    please also tell us some more about the tank and sump ( size etc.... )
    Hi, Well, to answer a few of your questions.. The tank that had the over flow was a Hagen however the tank was drilled by the retailer after I had put in the order. He also designed the over flow attatched inside the tank. I am not sure but I believe the silicone was just a normal aquarium safe brand. The reason I say that is because at the time of purchase, the retailer explained to me that if the silicone severes from the plexiglass over flow to simply drill holes randomly through out the plexiglass structure.
    Anyhow... I agree... Assuming that the bottom glass is tempered, I will drill the holes immediatly to the back piece where I know it probably is normal glass. The tank is therefore, not drilled yet. This tank is not a Hagen as Hagen does not make a 27 gal. But it is not a cheap walmart brand either.
    Cheers,
    Will

  4. #4
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    sometime if you know the manufacturer, it's easy to find out what panes are tempered.

    if possible i would take the return plumbing over top the tank and just drill one hole for the overflow. i'm just having a hard time visualizing the overflow, so i can't really say where to drill.
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

  5. #5
    Senior Member carrhd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4twenty View Post
    sometime if you know the manufacturer, it's easy to find out what panes are tempered.

    if possible i would take the return plumbing over top the tank and just drill one hole for the overflow. i'm just having a hard time visualizing the overflow, so i can't really say where to drill.
    My 90 G was bottom drilled. My 220 G is back drilled.

    I won't do another bottom drilled tank. If you spring a leak at the bottom of your tank there is a LOT of water above the leak. If you spring a leak in the back of your tank there is less water above the leak.

    Hank.
    220G mixed reef main, 30 G (3 x 10) brood/grow-out, 25 G secondary, 6 G frag with shared sump

    Return Pump: Iwaki MD55RLT
    Water Movement: Tunze Turbelle Stream 6060, 4 x MaxiJet 1200
    Lighting: 60" Outer Orbit dual 250 W 10k HQI and quad 48" T5HO Actinic
    Skimmer: Precision Marine Bullet-2 with Iwaki MD55RLT, WC610 waste collector, and gate valve

    Experience: Fresh since 1976 - Marine since 1987

    Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/hank.carr

  6. #6
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    I agree with Carrhd

  7. #7
    Junior Member willsnano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carrhd View Post
    My 90 G was bottom drilled. My 220 G is back drilled.

    I won't do another bottom drilled tank. If you spring a leak at the bottom of your tank there is a LOT of water above the leak. If you spring a leak in the back of your tank there is less water above the leak.

    Hank.
    This makes perfect sense, of course! May I ask how far up the tank you drill your outlet and do you do the same for the return?
    Cheers,
    Will

  8. #8
    Senior Member carrhd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by willsnano View Post
    This makes perfect sense, of course! May I ask how far up the tank you drill your outlet and do you do the same for the return?
    Hi, Will.

    My tank is a standard 220 G (72 x 24 x 30). The two large drain holes are 12" from the ends and 6" down from the top. My return is not drilled through the tank because I've got a service room behind my aquarium and the top is completely open. I run the return in over the back of the tank.

    Hank.
    220G mixed reef main, 30 G (3 x 10) brood/grow-out, 25 G secondary, 6 G frag with shared sump

    Return Pump: Iwaki MD55RLT
    Water Movement: Tunze Turbelle Stream 6060, 4 x MaxiJet 1200
    Lighting: 60" Outer Orbit dual 250 W 10k HQI and quad 48" T5HO Actinic
    Skimmer: Precision Marine Bullet-2 with Iwaki MD55RLT, WC610 waste collector, and gate valve

    Experience: Fresh since 1976 - Marine since 1987

    Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/hank.carr

  9. #9
    Junior Member willsnano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carrhd View Post
    Hi, Will.

    My tank is a standard 220 G (72 x 24 x 30). The two large drain holes are 12" from the ends and 6" down from the top. My return is not drilled through the tank because I've got a service room behind my aquarium and the top is completely open. I run the return in over the back of the tank.

    Hank.
    Hi Hank,
    Thank you for your help in this matter. I am not sure if I have mentioned that my tank is 27ish gal. and as of yet, still dry! I am hoping to get it up and going soon so I can enjoy it rather than looking at a tank with nothing in it but shrooms and corals. (plain shrooms and a few other colorless things.)
    Equipment is so expensive to buy and I am going to have to opt by buying 2nd hand.
    Anyhow, Thanks again.
    Will

  10. #10
    Senior Member carrhd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by willsnano View Post
    Hi Hank,
    Thank you for your help in this matter. I am not sure if I have mentioned that my tank is 27ish gal. and as of yet, still dry! I am hoping to get it up and going soon so I can enjoy it rather than looking at a tank with nothing in it but shrooms and corals. (plain shrooms and a few other colorless things.)
    Equipment is so expensive to buy and I am going to have to opt by buying 2nd hand.
    Anyhow, Thanks again.
    Will
    A 27 G? That's a good size. I've got a back drilled 25 G. I would drill one hole in the middle of the tank about 3" down. Buy your bulkhead at TSC. They're around $10. You can use the same bulkhead mounted overflow and silencer I use on my big tank but on a smaller scale.

    I drew a picture here: http://www.aquariacanada.com/forums/...1&postcount=16

    Hank.
    220G mixed reef main, 30 G (3 x 10) brood/grow-out, 25 G secondary, 6 G frag with shared sump

    Return Pump: Iwaki MD55RLT
    Water Movement: Tunze Turbelle Stream 6060, 4 x MaxiJet 1200
    Lighting: 60" Outer Orbit dual 250 W 10k HQI and quad 48" T5HO Actinic
    Skimmer: Precision Marine Bullet-2 with Iwaki MD55RLT, WC610 waste collector, and gate valve

    Experience: Fresh since 1976 - Marine since 1987

    Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/hank.carr

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