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  1. #1
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    Help with electrical

    Any electricians out there? I'm running some wiring in an unfinished area of the basement for my equipment room. The wiring will be exposed (not run through studs or behind a wall). Does anyone know if I can use schedule 40 PVC conduit to house the wires...as per Ontario electrical safety code?

    A guy at Home Depot said that the schedule 40 PVC is not allowed for use indoors.

    I'd rather use the PVC than metal conduit as it'll look cleaner

    Thanks

  2. #2
    liv
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    Former Moderator liv's Avatar
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    why not use the pvc specially made for hydro ?
    its actually cheaper then regular pvc.

    moving.. so temporarily out of SW :b8:
    planning next tank, possibly 60x30x20 on 2x plasma.
    updated: 2011/05/30

  3. #3
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    code is code, ya really should follow it, if there was a fire for ANY reason the insurance company might not fully cover you! your supposed to use the metal
    [GBX?] conduit inside a home on surface.
    PVC is toxic [extremely] when burning in a fire. even more so than ABS standard plumbing.

  4. #4
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    if you have to use metal, you'd probably be better of just buying some BX cable ( armoured ) and running that. it'll save you some time and probably some money, just make sure to use the plastic bushings at each at each end.
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

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  5. #5
    Moderator ShipWreck's Avatar
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    According to the 24th Edition of the OESC, section 12-1100 Use (1), Rigid PVC conduit shall be permitted for exposed and concealed work above and below ground in accordance with the Rules for threaded rigid metal conduit subject to the provisions of Rules 2-128 and 12-1102 to 12-1122.



    Rules
    2-128 Totally enclosed non metallic raceways installed in buildings shall meet the flame spread requirements of the National Building code of Canada
    12-1102-1122 (sumarized
    Rigid PVC conduit shall not be used where enclosed in thermal insulation.
    Not to be installed in any location with temp in excess of 75C
    Field bends must comply with 12-922
    Fittings should be glued and not threaded
    Female threaded PVC adapters shall be used together with a metal conduit nipple to temnate at threaded conduit entries in metal enclosures
    Must be supported at intervals based on conduit size
    Conduit cannot be used as a support
    Maximum # of conduters in conduit is covered by rule 12-1014
    a seperate bonding conductor shall be installed in rigid PVC conduit in compliance with Rul 10-404


    Rigid types EB1 and DB2/ES2 PVC conduit snall not be used above ground,

    I do not see any specification on the exact PVC tubing in this particlar area of the code book, but it may be elsewhere. And finally, and new electrical installation needs to be inspected by a certified inspector.

    Any more questions? (I am not an electrician, just the electrical manager of a plant)
    Rob
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    Upgrade in the works! Keep looking for an update.


  6. #6
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    there ya have it, the insurance company's are pushing very hard that any electrical work in home or anywere has to be done by an electrician or inspected. gone are the days when you could run your own lines lol.
    your not even supposed to change an outlet !!

  7. #7
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    I bit the bullet and paid for inspections by the ESA for my basement renos, including my fishroom. I have no problem sleeping at night, knowing everything I did was beyond code and there won't be any insurance issues. Well worth the money. The inspector even checked out my wiring for the tank lights! It's not that expensive either, it depends on how many devices you need inspected. For 1-10 I think it was about $70. I can't remember exactly though. You can check there site and give them a call to find out more. esasafe.com

  8. #8
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    if you have any doubts at all, the piece of mind is worth every penny.

    my moms insurance company was going to drastically increase her rate ( or drop her ) because of the old fixtures and aluminum wiring. so i went in and pigtailed to copper and replaced all the fixtures. then we paid for 3 hours to have an electrician come in, inspect and write the report to the insurance company. in total we spent ~ $500, which was less than the insurance company wanted to increase for just one year :b13:
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

  9. #9
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    thanks all for the responses and Shipwreck for the detailed response. So that everyone knows and that you all pat me on the back :b15:, I did get a permit and will have a pre and final inspection done on my work. I also spoke with my inspector today about the question of the conduit and he said no problem as long as it's CSA approved and rated at flame spread 4 (which it is).

    The PVC schedule 40 stuff I was talking about is indeed electrical PVC conduit but for some reason, it's labeled as schedule 40 at HD which I suppose has to do with it's thickness. Anyway, all is good and I'm set to go.

    Beertech, couldn't agree with you more. I will definitely be sure to install above code.

    cheers.

  10. #10
    Moderator ShipWreck's Avatar
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    I actually just finished asking our electrical inspector about this too and he said the same thing. His only thought may be that there is a building code that may have been involved but confirmed electrical code was fine with it.

    Good job on the permit, it would be nice if more people thought about this stuff. Most people don't realize that almost all of the electrical components sold at the hardware store should be inspected. Replacing a switch/outlet for the same item is really the only time an inspection is not required.
    Rob
    -----
    Upgrade in the works! Keep looking for an update.


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