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Thread: Drilling tank

  1. #1
    Member amdninjaboy's Avatar
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    Drilling tank

    Ordered my 90 gal tank yesterday and also ordered a few bulkheads and strainers. My question is about where to drill the holes for the overflow bulkheads. Ive read where people say to drill them about 4" down from the top of the tank. Do you then just have the strainer pointing staright into the tank or if you drilled the hole lower you could use and elbow and then a piece of pipe to set the strainer standing upwards at the level you want the water to be at. Im not sure what the best setup would be so anyone who has done this before I would appreciate any info and pics of how you have setup your overflows.

    Thanks,
    Shane.

  2. #2
    ijo
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    I think 4 inches down is good... you can use an elbow with strainer(been there) but I would go with a small overflow box and a durso on the outside.

    IJO

  3. #3
    Member amdninjaboy's Avatar
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    Im just goin basic on this one IJO, if I just have the strainer in the tank can I put a 'T' fitting on the back of the bulkhead and do a semi-durso setup? Would that help any, would it even do anything. Im not going for super flow, probably 400gph or so..maybe even 300.. Gonna have 2 drains and im gonna cross them so the drain pipe runs about 45* angle to try and help with noise. Ive read most of the noise comes from the water falling straight down and putting the drains on angles help with making the water roll down the pipe rather than free falling..
    What do you think..

    Shane.

  4. #4
    liv
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    Hi,
    you could setup a T one side pointing down attached to a strainer, the top part of the T could be capped and a 1/4" fitting installed with an air tube to stop the siphon and reduce noise.

    also to reduce the sound, look for a piece of spaflex instead of a hard line, the curve will slow down the water and probably stop most of the splashing from occurring.

    keep in mind that this setup may/will fail unless you keep that strainer really clean, always best to setup 2 drains. and keep both clean. also might not be a bad idea to setup an overflow electronic switch, if water gets passed a certain level, it stops your sump pump from sending more water ( saving you from a mess ).

    so 2 drains + electronic float switch for safety is my recommendation

    moving.. so temporarily out of SW :b8:
    planning next tank, possibly 60x30x20 on 2x plasma.
    updated: 2011/05/30

  5. #5
    Member amdninjaboy's Avatar
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    Definitely plan on having 2 drains, never thought of having the pump controlled to stop a flood but that is a great idea. Could setup a float switch to shut down pump in sump if its getting too full. Im gonna have wiring all over. For an ATO do you have to use an electric solenoid to control the water flow or do they make mechanical top off valves that just turn water off like a toilet fill valve?
    Shane.

  6. #6
    liv
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    for top off.. just a powerhead in a container with a tube going into your sump.
    I always put an T and an 1/4" line inside the container.. so when pump is not in use.. no syphon is created and it stops the flow when the pump is not running... simple and works like a charm

    control that pump with 3 float switches, 2 down 1 up.

    so both down need to be tripped ( in series ) and 1 up ( in case the two bottom are dirty/stuck ) so it bypasses the current
    so the up one is always tripped on, the bottom two are off and trip on when water reaches the low threshold.
    both trip.. if by chance those 2 get stuck the up one will trip when it reaches it .. its a fail safe. ( saved my @$$ a few times )

    moving.. so temporarily out of SW :b8:
    planning next tank, possibly 60x30x20 on 2x plasma.
    updated: 2011/05/30

  7. #7
    Member amdninjaboy's Avatar
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    Got my holes drilled in the tank no prob.. Im gonna use 1.5" pvc for the drains but Im gonna angle them so the water isnt falling straight down, hopefully that will help with noise too.. Thanks for the suggestions Liv, I think I will do my ATO the way you suggested.. Rather than chance a float valve hooked straight to my R/O.. Have read a few bad stories about overflowing the sump with just mechanical floats or single switch setups..

    Thanks again everyone for your help.. Ive been trying to post pics in another thread to show my progress but not having any luck getting the pics posted..

    Shane.

  8. #8
    liv
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    totally agree.. most ( rather cheap ones ) mechanical float switches will fail.
    in our systems.. sometimes algea or sediments get on them and they get stuck.... rely on an external system to bypass is best.

    do it properly now will save you a floor down the road

    oh.. if you do get a controller in the future.. there are extra ports on these things that can be used to add extra float switches etc.
    one of those could be also used to trip a float switches in the eventuality that your system fails to stop .. and it could email you, page you etc. with a warning you would have set up.
    I recommend Neptune systems.. ( stay away from RKE )

    moving.. so temporarily out of SW :b8:
    planning next tank, possibly 60x30x20 on 2x plasma.
    updated: 2011/05/30

  9. #9
    Member amdninjaboy's Avatar
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    What is RKE Liv? I was looking at the tunze osmolator system. It uses an eye for level control but has a float switch also for back up. I did some reading and most people that have them are happy with them. Says the eye is not fooled by algae, snails etc like a float switch could be.

    Shane.

  10. #10
    liv
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    hmm.. never played with it.. dont know

    rke is reef keeper elite.
    played with one alot.. not impressed.. and it failed when it was most needed.
    I do not recommend it.

    moving.. so temporarily out of SW :b8:
    planning next tank, possibly 60x30x20 on 2x plasma.
    updated: 2011/05/30

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