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Thread: Black Silicone

  1. #1
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    Angry Black Silicone

    well, this is my experience with this product to date.
    Bought the GE #2 doors&windows black silicone to build my 500g tank. first leak test failed. redid the inside seem. second water test failed and very frustrating. could not understand why this tank wouldn't seal. Took tank completely apart this weekend and found that silicone in most places did not cure properly and the silicone itself was spongy. I used clear silicone that I found at HOMEHARDWARE that said aquarium safe on the tube and cheaper so I used this for bracing and a few other things. The clear silicone was amazingly hard! and tuff as nails! I'm on my 50th razor blade just trying to clean all the glass for resealing! something is definatly up with using GE BLACK? the stuff came off way to easy. I let the tank sit and cure for over a week and it didn't take. any Ideas guys/gals? needless to say I'll use the clear stuff this weekend.So now I have experience of building 3x 500g tanks! "LOL" talk about patience [or stupidity]

  2. #2
    liv
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    Former Moderator liv's Avatar
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    Good to hear that you are using the clear stuff johnny.
    The clear silicone probebly does give your tank an even cleaner look.

    oh.. send pics when done

    moving.. so temporarily out of SW :b8:
    planning next tank, possibly 60x30x20 on 2x plasma.
    updated: 2011/05/30

  3. #3
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    If I were you, I'd buy the product specially made to clean the residue left behind from the first silicone. Last thing you want is poor adhesion because silicone will not stick properly to where previous silicone was unless it is completely clean..., residue and all. Make sure there is absolutely no trace left!!!

  4. #4
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    definatly

  5. #5
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    I second that i bought some from canadian tire and it works like a charm, it was abotu 10$ for a bottle of it and you'd probably only need one
    Mark
    50 Gal SPS/LPS Mixed Reef
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  6. #6
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    Cool FISHMONGER

    what was the product you bought? from CA tire.

  7. #7
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    I think it was called DAP silicone remover
    Mark
    50 Gal SPS/LPS Mixed Reef
    25 Gal Fuge
    Neptune Aquacontroller
    Pro Cal Calcium Reactor
    Acrylic City Kalk Reactor
    Euroreef CS6-3 Skimmer
    2x175W MH 1x250W MH 2x65W Actinics

  8. #8
    Senior Member tictoc's Avatar
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    deffinately get the silicone remover, and tape the edges about 5/8-3/4 from the corner, when you cut the nozzle don't cut it on a 45 degree angle, cut it on a 90, then hold the gun almost at a 90, or opposite the way you are going so that the silicone gets forced into the corner..then you can wet your finger and flatten it out if you so desire.
    Any darn fool can make something complex; it takes a genius to make something simple

  9. #9
    Senior Member ABahn's Avatar
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    JR,

    The black silicone used on my tank was GE as well. I know that my tank cured about 3-4wks. Main seams first, then the inner seams. I had no problems. I would try the same thing on your tank.

  10. #10
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    ABAHN

    not sure why? it didn't cure properly??? but, I went with the clear this time. the method I used last time might have contributed to the problem. Theres 2 ways that I found to put a tank together,#1 is to put all panes together and tape and then add spacers. then you force the silicone inas you remove the spacers. I did it this way and didn't like the results. I found that after tAking the tank apart that the silicone didn't make it deep enough in between the panes.
    #2.Is to have a few people with you and silicone all edges then force the panes together and tape tight or use bracing/clamps. I think this will work way better.this is quite the learning experience.

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