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  1. #1
    Moderator Krugar's Avatar
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    Overflow question

    Anyone know how to figure out how big an overflow needs to be?

    I found a calc on RC, but I'm not sure I understand it's answer lol.

    It's saying that I need 9 linear inches. Does that mean I have to be 9" long, or could it be 3"x3" etc?

    Sorry if I'm being dumb.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Moderator cres's Avatar
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    Interesting that it would offer a definitive number without an explanation, can you post a link to it?

    My >guess< is that you need to have 9" along the edge of your overflow. So, it can be 6 inches wide and 3 inches deep, in the corner, or 3 inches square somewhere along the back. Or any geometry that gives you 9", round, rhomboid, etc.

    But, you also need to consider the actual drain pipe as well. It needs to be large enough to handle at least twice your pump's capacity (for safety reasons).
    Sarchasm: The gulf between the author of sarcastic wit and the person who doesn't get it.

  3. #3
    Moderator Krugar's Avatar
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    It suggested a 1" pipe for a drain.

    Here's the link:

    http://reefcentral.com/calc/drain.php

    Basically I just want to siphon out of my tank into a yet to be build fuge and return using a power head. Then I can get rid of a lot of crap from the inside of my tank.

    The Pro 3 is rated at a max of 240GPH and it'd have a maxium head of 12".

    There will be a second Pro 3 driving my protien skimmer, but I have to measure it's return rate. It's likely under 50 GPH though.

    So I'm guessing I'd really need in the 300 area, but I doubled it to be safe.

    Or is that a dumb thing to do?

    Cheers!
    There is nothing so permanent as a temporary measure.

  4. #4
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    Kruger ... Cris is correct ... the number they are referring to is in fact the length of "top edge" that is required for the parameters you typed into the calculator. Myself I would not go with a 1 inch drain hole. It is too small and could be plugged by even one snail Shell. I would go with the 1.5 inch standpipe drain setup. Get your bulkhead filling before you have any holes drilled. As for the power head to run the system.. I would seriously think about getting something with go pushing power. Something in the MAG series as a minimum.
    Rob

  5. #5
    Moderator cres's Avatar
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    Since you are likely talking about a hang on type fuge, I would probably recommend that you pump into the fuge and let it overflow back into the tank (i.e. place raise the fuge over the edge of the tank and create a drain back into the main tank.
    Syphon type overflows can stop and fail due to air buildup in the syphon tube, etc. The overflow can be plugged, like OSD said, by a snail, etc., but that is true of anything.

    If you are talking about a true sump below or away from your tank, you should consider drilling your main tank and going with a full setup.

    Going from your signature, this is a 10 g nano you are talking about? How big a fuge are you considering? Do you plan on putting the skimmer in the fuge too?
    Sarchasm: The gulf between the author of sarcastic wit and the person who doesn't get it.

  6. #6
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    Cres .. If it's a HOB fuge he would not need any holes?? Krugar ... can you clarify that for us please.
    Rob

  7. #7
    Moderator Krugar's Avatar
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    I'm working on it...

    I'd like to get a Mag 0250 or 0350 to drive the return, but we just replace everything but the fridge and stove, so new toys for the aquarium have to come out of my coffee funds for a while.

    So unless I come across a used one in that range, we're talking a lot of coffee

    Cheers!

  8. #8
    Moderator Krugar's Avatar
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    Hang on is what I'm planning on. I wasn't planning on drilling any holes in this tank.

    I wanted to split the return into at least 2 sides of the tank to get a better flow in the display, thus the idea of siphon in and pump back.

    I'm only planning on it being big enough to hold a good clump of macro, hide my heater and remove the power heads from the display, so my DIY Skimmer will be fed from the fuge but could go into the tank or back into the fuge.

    I could also rebuild the skimmer to different configurations now that I've got a decient understanding of how that work.

    I was thinking of getting one of those small Ehiem ball powerheads and hooking the air venturi to the top of the shipon hose to keep it going, this would also live in the fuge.

    Does that sound okay?

    Cheers!

    EDIT: The overflow is mostly to surface skim and to keep the display from emptying if something goes wrong.
    There is nothing so permanent as a temporary measure.

  9. #9
    Moderator cres's Avatar
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    OSD >> Cres .. If it's a HOB fuge he would not need any holes??

    Well, it could be rigged like a standard trickle filter. That would not require drilled holes. To skim, would require the overflow which would in turn have either a syphon or a drilled drain. Although, there are skimmer like ad-ons for trickly filters that would still be simple enough in a design like that.

    I prefer the drilled drain hole myself, but, it can be tricky to drill an existing 10 g tank setup. Maybe this should wait for Krugar's next tank.

    Putting a 3x3" overflow box in a 10 g, will take almost as much room as a couple power heads.
    Sarchasm: The gulf between the author of sarcastic wit and the person who doesn't get it.

  10. #10
    Moderator Krugar's Avatar
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    True 3x3 is at least as big as the power head and that does bother me.

    But I'd have 1 box in the corner and I'd loose the heater, a second power head, the macro algea, possbily the temperature probe, and the cpvc piping leading to the skimmer.

    So I'm thinking over all I come out a head, but I'm open to suggestions.

    Cheers!
    There is nothing so permanent as a temporary measure.

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