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  1. #1
    Senior Member ReefVan's Avatar
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    Describe Your Top-Off System

    Alright folks,

    Time to find out what most of you marine enthusiasts do for a top-off system.

    What you have installed, not what you'll do for one... :

    At the same time it'll give others here some insight into how they should perhaps modify their own system and the potential things to look for that could cause trouble with some designs.

    Van
    It's not junk, it's un-assembled DIY!

  2. #2
    ijo
    ijo is offline
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    I currently use a product god gave me(eyes) and a bucket of ready to serve water. I'm thinking tusnami with the move(unless you DIY'ed something better).

    IJO

  3. #3
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    Oooooooohhhh.. fun stufff....

    Before I start, pictures are coming soon. I just have to get off my arse to take good ones.

    I currently have an Aquasafe 6 stage RO/DI unit which feeds a rubbermaid trashcan via a Kent float valve.
    The kent float valve keeps the RO/DI water to what I set it at in the rubbermaid.
    Now, if you're still with me, in my sump I have a DIY floatswitch which controls top-off water from the rubbermaid.
    The floatswitch itself is connected to a DIY hobby box which has a relay and transformer so that if ever there is a short in the switch, only 12v DC would be in the sump, and not the full 120v AC. For added security, the float switch is plugged into it's own GFCI receptacle. Anyhow, when the waterlevel drops in my sump, the floatswitch activates a Maxijet 1200 pump in the rubbermaid, pushing water from there, through my kalk reactor, and finally into the sump. The kalk reactor mixes the fresh water with kalkwasser, thus keeping my pH and calcium levels up. From the kalk reactor, the freshwater, now limewater, goes to the sump eventually shutting off the floatswitch.

    Sounds more complicated than it really is.

    Future plans call for a high/low switch in the rubbermaid with a solenoid at the filter which will act as the main RO/DI level controller. (check out my KENT floatvalve thread). The KENT floatvalve will then become my failover in case the solenoid ever crapped out on me.

    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

  4. #4
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    I would love to figure out something other than "what God gave me" but having the tank in the dinning room leave little choice. I top up by hand daily

    J

  5. #5
    Senior Member ReefVan's Avatar
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    Good one Ivan,

    Right now I use a Tsunami Top-Off unit. The sensor tube is in the sump central compartment and detects an approx 3 litre drop in the sump.

    This amount in itself is insignificant when you take into account the total system volume of approx 90 gallons.

    The top-off reservoir is approx 18 litres and has a Maxi-Jet 1200 pumping tp the sump through a hose with a quick-disconnect fitting for maintenance.

    The only shortfall I can see with this system is that unless I fill it every 5 days or so, the powerhead could run "dry".

    I am seriously considering a float switch in the reservoir to cut power to the powerhead in a low-level situation.

    The DPDT relay that the float switch will power, will also have a small quartz buzzer attached so as to sound off when the float is triggered by a pre-set low level.

    On my 220 gallon I will use a RO/DI top-off with dual-redundancy float switches because the cold water pipe will be next to the tank, as well as the sewer drain for the RO/DI waste water and water changes.

    Van
    It's not junk, it's un-assembled DIY!

  6. #6
    Senior Member ReefVan's Avatar
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    Jakets,

    I have my tank in the family room and the reservoir fits nicely in the cabinet under the stand.

    I'll take some pics and post to give you some ideas...

    Van
    It's not junk, it's un-assembled DIY!

  7. #7
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    Pics would be great.
    My biggest problem is there isn't a lot of room left in my cabinet. I have a 75G AGA w/Stand.
    My sump was made for a 72G Bow front. I had it custom built for the Oceanic bow Stand, but after two leaks with the bow-front. I switched to the 75G. So to make a very long story short My sump is long, tall and narrow. It's so tall I can only take the cup off my Skimmer if it's in the lowest position and the top is off.
    I'm trying to convince my wife to let me put a whole in the wall and run the top-off lines from the laundry room. No luck so far.

    J

  8. #8
    Senior Member Fishysan's Avatar
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    I do the same thing as Tang man, except I use 120v for more zap.

    TMM - how do you have your neilson reactor plumbed to prevent reverse syphoning when the powerhead shuts off? You rely on a one way valve? What kind?

    I'm adding a neilson reactor too, but I need a way to break the syphon.. haven't thought of it all much yet.
    Fishysan ><>
    ---
    180g display main floor, 150g trough, 75g, 20g in basement
    SPS, LPS, softies, many clams & 14 fish
    main: 250w AB DE HQI x 3, 5' x 3 VHO actinic - trough: 400w venki

  9. #9
    Senior Member fishprick's Avatar
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    HAND & CUP:biggrinbo :biggrinbo :biggrinbo :biggrinbo

  10. #10
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    Fishysan...

    TMM - how do you have your neilson reactor plumbed to prevent reverse syphoning when the powerhead shuts off? You rely on a one way valve? What kind?
    I rely on a couple of things...

    1- Gravity. I have the Nielsen reactor sitting on the floor, it's output a little higher than the sump. However, that doesn't quite work well, as there is somehow still a little of reverse suction somehow... not much, but still...

    2- Airline checkvalves! The same ones used on airpumps. Fit right onto the hose. I have one on the reactor's output, and one on the input. The maxi-jet puts enough pressure on it to open it while pumping. However, the siphon doesn't have enough "uumph" to open the little checkvalve. Hence, problem solved. The one on the input side of the reactor stops limewater from siphoning back into the rubbermaid (freshwater reservoir).

    FYI... have some extra checkvalves on hand. I had to replace my first one after 6 months due to calcium/crud buildup.
    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

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