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  1. #1
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    DIY hood question

    I am building a hood for my tank this weekend and was wondering if the hood for can fit sung to the tank. I have always built hoods for my FW tanks this way but was wondering if there was a reason i couldnt do it this way for SW as i noticed at marine scape on carling that they have a gap betwen their tank and hood.
    Can i just use regular end caps or do i need special ones.
    Basically guess the question is if the salt will cause extra corrosion.

    There wont be any MH in the hood, just NO as thats all i can afford right now so heat wont be as much of a problem.

    speaking of NO, what is a good place to pick up sme NO floresants and what brand should i keep an eye out. from what i can tell they should be full spectrum with a cri of 90 or higher and a kelvin rating of 6500 or higher. is this correct?? is there anything else??

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Sure, you can sit the hood on the rim of the tank. Most people who do it this way have some type of hinged panel in the front so they can have access.

    You should use 'water-proof' end caps such as the ones made by Icecap. (will you have a glass cover?) Salt crystals will always form on things above the tank and where there's any salt spray or splash. Any place where capillary action occurs will have salt too. We generally call this 'salt creep'. Salt is conductive, so there's a good chance that it will cause a short. Not good.

    As for your NO fluroscent tubes, check out the line from Coral Life. The trichromatic ones are good, 50/50's are good too. I think they call their 6500k bulb a 'daylight' bulb. Depending on how many bulbs you use, you can do actinic and daylight, rather than the 50/50. You can use regular ballasts at home depot and it will work ok. I wouldn't go too deluxe for NO lights. You'll end up spending more money than 1 250 watt metal halide. Remember that these bulbs are not cheap, especially if you're gonna run 4 tubes. I think they're atleast 25 bucks each.
    George

  3. #3
    Sponsor - Ottawa Inverts
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    thanks george,
    I do have a makeshift glass cover on already and will be adding a better one with the hood to try and reduce the effects of salt creep and so i dont have to top up the tank as often. How much space approx should be left between the glass and the floresants?
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  4. #4
    Senior Member ktown's Avatar
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    My 2 cents ~ place the hood on the tank. no gaps! The light coming out of anygap will drive you nuts. At least i hate it anyway. Also if you havent started yet. Give yourself a little space to upgrade the lighting later if you want. I would make the height at least 12" from the top of the tank. you can always install a block of wood or two to adjust your NO lighting, this way it will be nice and close to the water. Id say 4" to 6" max. I also used NO lighting with just the basic style end caps from home depot. This setup worked for me with no glass on the top of the tank for years! watch those fingers...:yay:
    TANK -35 Gallon with 15 gallon sump/fuge
    LIGHTS - T5HO 36" 165 total watts
    FLOW - Mag 7, fluval 304, 201 powerhead
    OTHER - seaclone 100 skimmer, RO/DI water

  5. #5
    Sponsor - Ottawa Inverts
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    Thanx Ktown. What type of flourescents did you use?
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  6. #6
    Senior Member ktown's Avatar
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    I used 2 18k powerglow 36" 30w by coralife
    with 2 actanic 36" 30w by coralife

    these 4 lights made up 120 watts over my 35 gallon tank. I only had some mushrooms, live rock and fish under this setup.

    I upgraded to coralife PC lighting 2 96w bulbs. they put out real nice light. Im still only keeping soft coral under this light.
    I was able to by a retro kit on ebay for a good price. They fit into my cabinet with no problems.


    I also had my lights on timers. The Attanics came on first. then the daylight bulbs about 1 hour later. Same thing when they shut down at night. To do this you need 2 ballest. wire 2 lights to each. Try to install the Ballest some place away from the top of the tank. less heat! and way safer. I also used blocks of wood to keep air between the ballest and the surface that they were installed onto. those things get real hot!!! Keep that in mind when you install them.
    TANK -35 Gallon with 15 gallon sump/fuge
    LIGHTS - T5HO 36" 165 total watts
    FLOW - Mag 7, fluval 304, 201 powerhead
    OTHER - seaclone 100 skimmer, RO/DI water

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