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  1. #1
    Senior Member boyohboy's Avatar
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    Flow switch not working?!

    I got 3 simple flow switches here from AC quite awhile ago. I just splicedthe flow switch into a electric cord and trying it. But the switch is always on, no matter how I move the floaty thing!?! Is there any trick installing a flow switch?

  2. #2
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    Cool

    well, it should go off when you move the float but that being said, they really should be used with a relay as 110v will eventually fry the reed. TANGMAN here knows more about it.

  3. #3
    Senior Member boyohboy's Avatar
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    so when I move the float and the switch is still on..... means the switches are faulty?! I cant' think of anything else that can go wrong.... it's just like a regular switch, in terms on splicing it to the wire, right?
    Hardwares: 50G reef tank, 30G sump & ~55lb Indo/Fiji LR. Finnex 36"x4 T5 lights, Coralife Superskimmer 220g, Mag9.5 return and SEIO820+MJ600 PH.
    Corals: zoosss, mushrooms, hammer, torch, fogsprawn, blasto, crocea clam, RBTA
    Fish: Percular clown PJ cardinal, royal gramma, yellow watchman goby, 3x chromis.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Serge's Avatar
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    Ermm... Why would you want to have 120 VAC @ 15 Amps in your tank/sump? As suggested, better used it/them with a relay at very low voltage/amperage. 6-12 V DC at 250 milliamp should be more than enough to activate a relay that will switch the 120V AC for you. :-)

    Always think safety when mixing electricity and salt water, which is an even better conductor of current than fresh water.

    Just my 2 cents.

    Cheers!

    :-)
    Serge

    Common Sense - Is'nt!!


  5. #5
    Senior Member boyohboy's Avatar
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    well i'm still just testing the switches, with a light bulb to see how the switches go.. but now the main problem is the switches don't seem to be working tho...
    Hardwares: 50G reef tank, 30G sump & ~55lb Indo/Fiji LR. Finnex 36"x4 T5 lights, Coralife Superskimmer 220g, Mag9.5 return and SEIO820+MJ600 PH.
    Corals: zoosss, mushrooms, hammer, torch, fogsprawn, blasto, crocea clam, RBTA
    Fish: Percular clown PJ cardinal, royal gramma, yellow watchman goby, 3x chromis.

  6. #6
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    boyohboy,
    Float switches are "reed-style" switches that should not have 120v running through them. You probably fused the contacts on the switch, and it is now useless.

    You should use a step-down circuit with a relay to convert the power down to 12v instead of 120v.

    If you have any knowledge in electronics, you can make one yourself, or I can build you one for a small fee.
    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

  7. #7
    Senior Member boyohboy's Avatar
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    okie ic... i think i have a 9V DC convertor to try it out... need to think of something to test with the other un-tested floatswitches hummm
    Hardwares: 50G reef tank, 30G sump & ~55lb Indo/Fiji LR. Finnex 36"x4 T5 lights, Coralife Superskimmer 220g, Mag9.5 return and SEIO820+MJ600 PH.
    Corals: zoosss, mushrooms, hammer, torch, fogsprawn, blasto, crocea clam, RBTA
    Fish: Percular clown PJ cardinal, royal gramma, yellow watchman goby, 3x chromis.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Serge's Avatar
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    Here is a very simple schematic to test the functionality of your float switch, along with a DPDT relay. HTH

    Serge

    Common Sense - Is'nt!!


  9. #9
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    put an ohm meter on the ends of the float switch leads .....move the float up and down if the meter is reading always the same ...then the contacts are welded together just like Vince mention

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