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Thread: Black Spots

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Black Spots

    I noticed earlier when looking into my tank that our Clownfish have little black dots on their bodies.. I wish I could get pictures but I really cant..

    It just happened recently. Its not just around the fins, its everywhere.

    Is this something I should be concerned about? Any ideas as to what I can do to help them?

  2. #2
    Senior Member DARK's Avatar
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    Black Ich.


    Its actually caused by an infestation of tiny Genus Paravortex member turbellarian flatworms.

    Although parasitic organisms that are much less dangerous and life-threatening, as well as rather easy to get rid of compared to other ich diseases such as Oodinium, Cryptocaryon, and Brooklynella, nonetheless it is a problem that needs to be treated upon recognition to eradicate infected fishes of these parasites.

    The Life Cycle of These Worms:

    -Living in the substrate until mature, an adult worm seeks out a host fish.

    -After feeding for about six days, it falls off into the substrate.

    -About five days later the worm's body ruptures and releases a new population of young worms, and the cycle starts again, but in larger numbers.

    -Give all infected fish a freshwater dip, followed by a formalin bath and continue treatment in a QT.

    Preventing Reinfestation

    Reinfection will occur no matter how effectively the fish have been treated if these parasitic tubellarian worms are not eradicated from the main aquarium. Unfortunately because they can survive for several months without a host, this is often not an easy thing to do, but here are some suggestions.

    Leave the main aquarium devoid of all fish for several months.

    Young worms live in the substrate and feed on detritus and organic debris until such time they mature and go in search of a fish host. By siphoning up excess organic matter that can build up on the bottom of the aquarium can help to control their numbers.

    For fish-only tanks that have no freshwater sensitive invertebrates present, hyposalinity can be applied.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the quick reply! Very informative

    Ill do my best.. But I do not have a QT..

    Is there an alternative to fixing this problem?

  4. #4
    Senior Member DARK's Avatar
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    Hyposalinity Treatment

    You can read about it here



    http://www.petsforum.com/personal/tr...osalinity.html

  5. #5
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    Its amazing how much work is involved with things like this.

    Me and my better half are gonna' go out tonight and get what we need to help with this problem and probally many other's in the future.

    Any suggestions as to what we should get?

    Thanks Dark for all the help. Our daughter was really upset when she seen her fishies were sick

  6. #6
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    maybe its not ick, have they been trying to host in a new coral/anemone, do you have pics?
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  7. #7
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    I've had them for over a month and they have not hosted anything

    They sleep at the back corner against the substrate all cuddled up. They show zero interest in my anemone's or corals

    I will post pics after work using my cell phone, that's the best I can do.

  8. #8
    Moderator ShipWreck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thisisthepart View Post
    Me and my better half are gonna' go out tonight and get what we need to help with this problem and probally many other's in the future.

    Any suggestions as to what we should get?
    Well the first thing is to have a QT tank. You should find a tank based on the size of display tank. For example a 65g display, a 20g would probably be a good choice but if your display is 300g then a 20g would be too small. The idea is the bigger your display, the bigger the fish in the display so a bigger QT required. In your case I would look at how many fish you plan to QT at once and either get a larger tank or a couple of smaller ones.

    To keep the QT filtered most people use a sponge filter driven by an air pump. Ideally the sponge is kept in the sump of the main system for several days to accumulate life before moving to the QT.

    If you are going to do any Hyper or Hypo salinity treatments a refractometer is required. A hydrometer is not precise enough to safely monitor the salinity levels during these treatments.

    I also like to have a small light over the QT. A small clip on fixture from the hardware store and a daylight CF work great. I like to reduce the lighting period when the fish are still sick but then use the light to bring them back to the normal tank lighting schedule prior to their return.

    And then there are medications. These are dependent on what you are treating. I have not had much experience with Meds so I will leave this up to others to chime in on.

    So for the immediate shopping list I would suggest
    - small QT tank
    - air pump
    - sponge filter
    - refractometer
    - clip on light

    Good luck.
    Rob
    -----
    Upgrade in the works! Keep looking for an update.


  9. #9
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    luckily for me, i only have a 25 Gallon and two clownfish. But a lot of invertebrates :S

    I also have a 10 gallon tank collecting dust in my basement that I can use.
    I'll get a refractometer and meds as well- also a clip on light.

    I have a bio sponge water filter brand new as well. I guess I'll just need an air splitter for the tank.

    Ill let you know when I have everything set up and how they do. We appreciate everyone's help a lot

  10. #10
    Member kokain00's Avatar
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    we have this on both of our clowns to, we just assumed they were hosting, or getting stung by something while trying toi host

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