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  1. #1
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    Angry HELP!!! Ich/ Brook/ Fin rot Solutions needed!

    Hi there,

    I have a 90g DT with a 30g sump.

    I lost a purple firefish about a month ago, he seemed to have severe fin rot. Nothing happened since and now my mated pair of clownfish have the same thing happening but also seem to have ich and one has popeye. I started dosing prodibio 6 weeks ago (startup sequence only) corals haven't bleached, parameters were fine until 2 days ago and suddenly there's a huge ammonia spike but I can't see anything that might have caused it.

    I don't have a QT tank so I dosed Melafix last night. Which after reading a bit online might just be a huge waste of time and I should QT all the fish clowns, firefish, pygmy and flame angel) and just have the tank fallow for 6-8 weeks to stop the ich cycle.

    Can I do this with a brand new completely clean QT? Or can I still take water from the DT to kickstart the QT? It would be a 25gal eclipse because that's all I have on hand. And am I correct in thinking that I would not use the carbon filter during treatment? What should I dose the QT with and for how long to ensure all these issues would be gone?

    Thank you!

  2. #2
    liv
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    Former Moderator liv's Avatar
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    qt tanks dont need any cycling..
    barebottom tub or aquarium is fine. give it some basic circulation ( small powerhead ) and a heater.. and use water from your water changes as its water.

    moving.. so temporarily out of SW :b8:
    planning next tank, possibly 60x30x20 on 2x plasma.
    updated: 2011/05/30

  3. #3
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    Thanks Liv!

    Just to clarify, I can still use the displays water even though I dosed it with Melafix? And what would you recommend I treat all the fish with now that I'll have to keep the DT fallow for 8 weeks?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by emeraude1484 View Post
    Hi there,

    I have a 90g DT with a 30g sump.

    I lost a purple firefish about a month ago, he seemed to have severe fin rot. Nothing happened since and now my mated pair of clownfish have the same thing happening but also seem to have ich and one has popeye. I started dosing prodibio 6 weeks ago (startup sequence only) corals haven't bleached, parameters were fine until 2 days ago and suddenly there's a huge ammonia spike but I can't see anything that might have caused it.

    I don't have a QT tank so I dosed Melafix last night. Which after reading a bit online might just be a huge waste of time and I should QT all the fish clowns, firefish, pygmy and flame angel) and just have the tank fallow for 6-8 weeks to stop the ich cycle.

    Can I do this with a brand new completely clean QT? Or can I still take water from the DT to kickstart the QT? It would be a 25gal eclipse because that's all I have on hand. And am I correct in thinking that I would not use the carbon filter during treatment? What should I dose the QT with and for how long to ensure all these issues would be gone?

    Thank you!
    What are your water Params? how old is the tank?

    What else do you have in the tank (corals, fish inverts etc...)?

    What was your reasoning to start adding prodibio? and what specific product / amounts did you use?

    Also, what was the reasoning behind adding melafix?

    The reason I'm asking these questions is because many things happen when you start adding chemicals to your system. Unless you know specifically, what they do and how they affect the balance I would strongly discourage their use. Especially without a "Plan B" or Quarantine tank.

    Adding chemicals/medications to a system that has live rock and coral can cause a massive die-off of all of the microbacteria and invertebrates living on your rock and as a result is likely to cause the ammonia spike you experienced.

    If ammonia continues to stay at detectable levels, lower it by doing water changes ONLY. do not add more chemicals.

    If you want to reduce nitrates/phosphates in the form of an additive, all you need to do is add a carbon source (vodka or vinegar) and follow one of the many tutorials. Zeovit and all those other systems are glorified rubbing alcohols used as carbon sources. Once your system becomes dependent on this it will rely on it for it's ionic balance.

    BUT, your natural ecosystem will find it's own balance without you affecting it. If you find that you have too much algae/phosphates you are either overfeeding, overstocking or something in there is dying causing the issue. In these cases, adding GFO and Carbon to a reactor will keep things in check.

    If I were you, I would keep an eye on ammonia, and mix up as much saltwater as possible to change it regularly and keep it from being at toxic levels. Eventually the tank will stabilize.

    Going forward, don't put any medications/additives into a tank with coral in it as it will just make things worse.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by liv View Post
    qt tanks dont need any cycling..
    100% incorrect.

    The nitrogen cycle still takes place whether it's a QT or not. You can do more harm than good to a fish in a QT tank if it's not done properly.

    Adding a fish to a bare, tiny 10 gallon square with nothing that resembles it's natural habitat and a few peices of PVC pipe will just stress the fish. Add a lack of biological filtration (which in the display tank is the live rock) will eventually cause a buildup of ammonia and/or nitrite which will kill your fish. In-Turn giving the hobbyist a false sense of hope.

    To the OP:
    If you want to use a quarantine tank, you must keep either a) have active bio media such as a sponge filter readily available and fully cycled, or b) must change enough water every day until either you get an established bio filter in the QT or your fish is removed.

    Adding live rock to the QT can serve as a temporary measure, but must be removed if you add any medications/additives because it will cause a die-off of all the bacteria on the liverock causing ammonia to spike and thus killing your fish.

    The only additive I recommend to help remove the toxicity of ammonia is Seachem "Prime". But this should be dosed only to recommended levels on the back as it's primary ingredient will also remove oxygen from the water. When using Prime, ammonia and nitrite will still show up on your test kit, so do not keep dosing it to try to get the ammonia level at 0 because it won't happen.

  6. #6
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    Also forgot to mention.

    If indeed your fish has open wounds. Be extra careful to the type of medication you are using if any.

    I would focus on keeping the qt perfectly clean to let the fish fight off the infection and prevent any additional bacterial outbreaks.

    If you've ever put rubbing alcohol on a wound and felt that pain, imagine if the wound was half the size of your body... you would go into shock, which most fish do when treating a bacterial infection with something that has these types of things in the medication.

    In short, let nature take its course and do the simple things. You will find that works best in the long run, keeps your stress level down, and keeps tank maintenance at it's lowest.

  7. #7
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    I'll retest when my son goes to bed and post.

    The tank was moved and upgraded in April. And corals were doing WONDERFULLY. However there's a huge outbreak of bubble algae and I ended up removing many rocks because of colonial hydroids (reason I bought the angels they apparently ate them)

    I have multiple sps including yellow/pink birdsnest, acropora, squamosa and crocea clams, torch, ricordea, zoas, aussie duncans, mated pair of clowns, firefish, flame angel, atlantic pygmy angel, hermits, snails, cleaner shrimp.

    Tunze protein skimmer, mag return pump, phosphate reactor and carbon filtration.

    Reason for starting prodibio was to help with coral coloration (eventually) I've only used it 6 weeks (startup sequence week 1 biodigest week 2 bioptim and so forth)

    Melafix was added to help heal clowns (1st time I've ever added meds to the aquarium) I wont be continuing the dosing and will do a 25g water change tonight.

    Would you suggest qting the fish or trying to balance the dt?

    Thanks for the input!

  8. #8
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    how would I attach a pic here? I don't see an attach option.

  9. #9
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    After uploading the file to the web, use the url in the IMG tags.

    You would use this syntax [img ]http://www.somesite.com/myimage.jpg[/img ]

    just make sure there are no spaces between the word img and the square brackets []

    http://imgur.com/ is a good place that hosts images for free.

  10. #10
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