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  1. #1
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    Fish's 125 Journal

    I got my 125 upgrade done this week. Thought I would start by posting some pics of the stand and canopy.

    For the canopy, I made three doors to use as panels - one for the front (which is hinged) and two for the sides (which are fixed). The top is a solid piece of veneered ply and there is a brace that runs high on the back for a bit more stability.

    For the joinery I used pocket screws and then glued in pocket screw fillers so that the metal of the screw was completely encased in the wood (no exposure to salt). I used multiple coats of wipe on satin polyurethane to finish the inside. The outside was finished with and oil/varnish mix (antique oil).

    Lighting is 2x400W Ushio MH and 2x110 URI Actinic VHO in PFO reflectors and 3 current USA moonlights on a strip along the back. There are two 4" fans blowing into the canopy but even with this I think I am going to have a heat problem.

  2. #2
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    Mar 2006
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    For the stand I wanted something that looked like furniture. I looked at what they were selling in stores and figured if the ridiculously flimsy stands the stores put under 125G that this design would more than be stable enough (seems it is hyeah: ).

    For the base, I built a simple plywood plinth. I used regular 3/4" ply for the 4 sides and cross bracing. On top of this I used a piece of baltic birch (likely serious overkill but...). To finish it off, I used a baseboard like moulding.

    I did the face frames (front and back) using pocket screws. There are 4 hardwood 2x2, one in each corner. The front and back face frames are biscuit glued into the 2x2s as are the 3/4" ply sides. The top is also baltic birch ply with a strip of hardwood all around so that the exposed edges are finished. The top and plinth are attached to the sides using pocket screws.

    For a finish, again I used poly on the inside base and oil/varnish for the sides of the interior and the exterior.

  3. #3
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    Mar 2006
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    This tank is on the second story of a an old house so plumbing to the basement was not an option. The goal was to fit everything necessary under the tank and not have anything exposed. Took a bit of finangling but I managed to get 25G long sump, ballasts, kalk system with 5G tank as fresh water supply under the tank.

    Tank was drilled by miracles and I got the overflow and return from marinescape. The skimmer is an AquaC EV-120 and the kalk reactor is from Blinky. Wavemaker is a Tsunami and the temperature is monitored by a bit of kit I got from Aqua when he was shutting down his tank.

  4. #4
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    Mar 2006
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    Ottawa, Ontario
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    I got Miracles to make the front pane of the aquarium using Starphire glass. It is a nice improvement over the high lead glass. Some corals, especially my red and green closed brain are dramatically better looking through the front glass when compared to the view from the side. I am nowhere near a good enough photographer to try to capture this but there is a difference.

    I have around 140lbs of rock which, it turns out, is not going to be enough to have a tall aquascape. The tank is 24" deep so alot of my rock got used up developing a front to back aquascape. I will be giving the tank a while to restabilize before adding more rock.

    The upgrade took around 6 hours - big thanks to my wife for her help! I had a 70G up and running. Around 6 weeks ago I set up a second 65 with around 50lbs of rock with the idea that rather than do a 50% effective water change with freshly mixed water I would try to match parametersand bring two tanks together into one larger tank. It seems to have worked out well so far. Only a couple heads on one hammer are looking distressed. Everything else looks great. I will try to post some better pics with the MH on - battery for the camera died.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    Dec 2005
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    150
    Wonderful job! Looks terrific.

  6. #6
    Senior Member frederick's Avatar
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    Apr 2005
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    2,137
    Very nice job!
    180g AGA inwall W/ 2 overflows W/ 205g sump 20g fuge, 77g W/ 30g sump 12g fuge w/mag 9.5 pump.

  7. #7
    Senior Member DARK's Avatar
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    Aug 2004
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    Looks good but as my girlfriend pointed out... we dont like the ballasts at the level they are. If ever there happens to be a flood and the water gets into them it might be dangerous.

  8. #8
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    Your girlfriend is wise. I will build a little platform to get the ballasts up off the base of the cabinet.

  9. #9
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    Mar 2006
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    Heat from the dual 400MH is turning out to be a problem. I have build the canopy enclosed top, front and sides with the back quite open and have 2 4" fans blowing just above water level into the rear of the canopy. This is not turning out to be enough ventilation as the temperature rises around 1 degree per hour, somewhat less if I leave the front of the canopy open.

    I am thinking that adding one or more fans drawing air from the canopy upwards through the top from inside the canopy might be the way to go. I have the PFO reflectors pretty much centered in the canopy so I can either put the fans behind the reflectors (rear of the canopy) or in front (front of canopy top). My preference would be to mount them at the rear but I suspect that mounting at the front would be more effective. Comments?

    Another approach might be to have ventilation run lenghtwise through the canopy (one fan LHS into the canopy and one fan RHS out of the canopy). The issue with this is that the ends of the canopy are actually doors and the panel in the door is only 1/4 thick ply so I would wind up with some exposed (non-veneered) wood.

    Suggestions more than welcome!

  10. #10
    Senior Member colesy's Avatar
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    Oct 2005
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    I just noticed this thread now.. Everything looks great.. Your stand and canopy look very well made.. It looks like you had everything planned out very well.. Great job!!

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