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  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005

    Sumps, sumps, everywhere sumps...

    Evening one and all...

    As my poor little brain tries to digest all the information about lighting that me " BIG lighting" post has generated, I thought I'd post a question about sumps.

    On another site (sacrilege, I know..., I found some simple ideas for sumps. I went to Canus Plastics at lunch (they're a 5 minute walk from the office) last Thursday and got a great deal on the 1/4" acrylic pieces I needed to get the sump together. They also had the Weld-On #16 and methylene chloride I need to put it all together. Picture included is from the article (Copyright notice etc...). My sump is actually 24" Lx 18" D x 14" the original plan got misplaced at Canus and I had to do it up from memory...

    My questions(finally) are this: What's the rule of thumb to putting in the 1st baffle (the area that receives the water from the show tank) and then what verticle seperation do I put in for the air bubble baffles( .5", 1", 1.25"...)? Just thought of something else...(sorry my brain works in fits and starts...): From the bottom of my sump to my return at the tank will be about 48" inches. Will a Mag12 be enough to move the volume I need? (will also be running 2x Seio 820's in the tank).

    Many thanks in advance,


  2. #2
    Senior Member SnelgroveReefer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    I believe that most people put their protien skimmer in the first section (that's where mine is) and the footprint of that will probably dictate where the baffle goes. As for the distance between air bubble baffles, I have always been told 1" apart and 1" up from the bottom (for the baffle not touching the bottom, usually the middle one of three). I have approx. 50" of 1 1/4" pipe between my sump and display and I use a Mag7. It is perfect match of full open overflow and full open return. Good luck and please update us with pics along the way.
    90g Display, 30gal sump w/ refugium, MAS CR418 calcium reactor w/ Mag5 and Blueline CO2, Vertex IN-180 protein skimmer w/ Mag5, Mag9.5 return, 150 Phosban Reactor w/ MJ 1200, 1 Ebo 200w heater, 90lbs. LR, 80lbs. Carib-Sea aragonite, Cooltouch MH lights -2 x 400watt (20K & 14K) PFO hoods & Coralife 65w PC in custom hood with fan, Coralife 3-3/4watt mini moonlights, 8 jet Closed Loop System w/Reef-flo Dart, Aqua-Safe RO/DI, JBJ Auto Top Off unit w/Mag 5 return, 12g Nano cube, 10g quarentine.

  3. #3
    Moderator ShipWreck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeandorais
    From the bottom of my sump to my return at the tank will be about 48" inches. Will a Mag12 be enough to move the volume I need? (will also be running 2x Seio 820's in the tank).
    That really depends on the volume you want. What I mean is, how big is your display tank? How big is your sump? Will you divert flow to feed a fuge? How many bend's twists and turns are in the planned 48"? And how big is the pipe between the pump and tank?

    All of the answers will dictate wether a mag 12 is big enough or not. First off you want a slower flow through the sump area so you have to calculate the volume of the sump and turnover rate you want there in addition to any flow required to feed a fuge. Now you have the volume per hour that you want to come out of the pipe.

    Next as you pump the water higher that will add to the head (resistance) and will drop the overal output of the pump. For example a 1200gph pump will pump 1200gph at 0-1' of height but if you want to raise it 8ft the flow may drop to 0gph and decrease as you rise. All pump manufactures will produce a head chart showing the dropoff to head relationship. Bends, elbows, T's, fittings, valves and pipe diameter will also create resistance and add to the head. There is a good calculator over on RC that will let you punch in the pump type, heights bends, fittings, etc, and spit out an estimated final flow.

    The other consideration for flow through the sump is that you want enough travel time between entering the sump and hitting the return pump that the detritus and bubbles settle out.

    Hope this helps.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Ricepicker's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    blocking the skimmer and breaking the flow... :biglaugh2

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    ooops, (again). The display tank is 48"x18"x24" sitting on a 31" stand. The sump (22"L x12"W x14"H)OR 24"x18"x14"- have acrylic for both...have to figure the stand to decide which one to use,) will be sitting at the bottom of the stand. Overflow on the AGA 90g is not on centre, but left of centre rear. I anticipate a couple of elbows into the sump and a fairly straight return back up to the tank.
    Having fun as I learn, and truly appreciate all the responses I've had to my questions!

    Jean D.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Quick update: the 24"x18"x14" basic box is built. Now have to figure out my spacing for my new protein skimmer (Coralife skimmer pro 125-which needs 12"x10" ), what pump I'm going to be putting in for the return and the air bubble baffles. Piece of cake...yeah right! : )


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