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  1. #1
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    Few basic questions..

    I was just wondering, what am I supposed to do when the water evaporates? I went to my family's 8 hours away for the weekend and when I got back my friend had the heat cranked and a LOT of water was missing. I have 3 culligan bottles of water to fill it up again, but do I need to add salt?? What's the rules when filling up a tank?

    Also, the floor of our aquarium is getting dirty, is that normal too?

  2. #2
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    only the water evaporates so you only need to add new water.

    how much flow do you have?

    ideally we don't want anything to settle on the bottom, can you syphon it out during a water change?
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


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  3. #3
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    I dont quite know what you mean by "flow" but I have a decent sized water Jet that moves the water around a lot.. The water is constantly moving.. I don't have a sump, no room or funds for one - or proper tank.

  4. #4
    Senior Member DARK's Avatar
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    When your tank evaporates you need to refill it with clean(not mixed with salt) water. I find it handy once you get the salinity to the proper level use a marker to mark the waterline and then when the tank "evaps" fill it with clean water to that point.

    When you do a water change it might be best to use a Python water changer to pick up any "dirt" on top the sandbed but do not distrub the bed.

  5. #5
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thisisthepart View Post
    I dont quite know what you mean by "flow" but I have a decent sized water Jet that moves the water around a lot.. The water is constantly moving..
    the pumps you are using have a Gallon Per Hour ( GPH ) rating. if you add them up, that will give you the total flow in the tank. because the amount of flow has different effects depending on the size of the tank ( ie. 100GPH in a 10G tank is much different that 100GPH in a 100G tank ) we take it one step further.

    by dividing your total flow by the size of your tank, you come up with your turn over rate. ( ie. 100gph in a 10G is a 10x turn over and 100gph in a 100G is 1x )

    some suggested turn over rates: ( these are rough )

    fish only 10x - 20x ( 20x being much better )
    reef with most corals 20x - 40x
    reef with SPS 40x ++

    the more flow you have the less chance there is for detritus to settle out and land on the bottom of the tank, helping prevent algae growth. flow also helps to prevent 'dead spots' in the tank that usually start to produce nitrates as detritus settles in them.
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

  6. #6
    Senior Member steve w.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thisisthepart View Post
    but do I need to add salt?? What's the rules when filling up a tank?
    Do you own a hydrometer?

    They are one of the cheapest tools($10), and yet the most valuable.

    When adding water to top up keep an eye on the hydrometer that's it's between 1021-1026.

    Culigen water,is that equivalent to tap or RO?
    100G Reef
    Purple,Blue,Yellow and Sailfin Tangs.Damsel,Clown and Coral Beauty,Fosters Hawkfish.
    Many mixed corals and clams.
    65G fuge in basement.
    Mag 24 return,RODI,2 Phosban reactors and UV.
    620w in DT.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    Wink

    Or even go with a refractometer. It's a great tool that last long and easy to calibrate. :b6:

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