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Thread: Water Changes

  1. #1
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    Water Changes

    I am ready to do my first water change, and I would just like to ask the proper way of doing this. I'm worried about Salinity, and screwing up my tank bad.

    Could someone please help?

  2. #2
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thisisthepart View Post
    I am ready to do my first water change, and I would just like to ask the proper way of doing this. I'm worried about Salinity, and screwing up my tank bad.

    Could someone please help?

    make sure you match the tank temperature ( or a little higher is better than lower ) and salinity. then remove water from the tank and add the new.

    i do mine through the sump and can siphon out 20G of water without shutting down my system. then i just pump the NSW directly into the sump where it mixes with tank water and is pumped up to the tank.


    HTH
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
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  3. #3
    lex
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    Water change

    I would do 30% water change. Dump the water out of the tank and put the tap water, luke warm water (80-84f) and add Prime conditioner (or whatever water conditioner you have).

    Do not put tap water into the tank with out adding water conditioner.

  4. #4
    BWI
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    the salt water needs to be mixed before added to the tank! do not mix the salt and water in the tank, always before the water goes in the tank!

    Building Quality not Quantity

  5. #5
    lex
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    water change

    Quote Originally Posted by BWI View Post
    the salt water needs to be mixed before added to the tank! do not mix the salt and water in the tank, always before the water goes in the tank!
    I'm sorry, i misunderstood for FW.

    i concur with BMI on this. Also, Sump is a good investment for a SW. I have seen people use Rubermaid 60-90g (can't remember the gallon) containers to make one.

  6. #6
    BWI
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    Quote Originally Posted by lex View Post
    I'm sorry, i misunderstood for FW.

    i concur with BMI on this. Also, Sump is a good investment for a SW. I have seen people use Rubermaid 60-90g (can't remember the gallon) containers to make one.
    i agree but just make sure the containers food grade safe

    Building Quality not Quantity

  7. #7
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BWI View Post
    i agree but just make sure the containers food grade safe

    i agree, it's the 'Brute" cans by rubbermaid that are food grade.
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


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  8. #8
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    i was just wondering why they need to be food grade ?

  9. #9
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reefaddicted View Post
    i was just wondering why they need to be food grade ?
    if they are food grade, they were manufactured so there is no chemicals to leech back into the water. its the same reason we use potable PVC pipe rather than ABS. ABS is for waste water and it doesn't matter if any chemical leech back so the manufacturers don't worry about it. in our tanks these chemicals used for manufacturing are toxic to the fish. ( and us as well )

    it kind of defeats the purpose of making RO/DI water, if we contaminant it before we put it in our tanks.

    HTH
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

  10. #10
    BWI
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4twenty View Post
    if they are food grade, they were manufactured so there is no chemicals to leech back into the water. its the same reason we use potable PVC pipe rather than ABS. ABS is for waste water and it doesn't matter if any chemical leech back so the manufacturers don't worry about it. in our tanks these chemicals used for manufacturing are toxic to the fish. ( and us as well )

    it kind of defeats the purpose of making RO/DI water, if we contaminant it before we put it in our tanks.

    HTH
    :045::045:

    Building Quality not Quantity

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