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Thread: New Here

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    New Here

    Hi,

    We have just set up our first SW tank ( it's just 20 days old) after tending to and throughly enjoying our FW one for almost five years.We still have our FW going on and ventured into SW very bravely.

    The tank is a 90g one with 2X150 MH at 14K. We have 176lbs of LR and with two blue damsels and a percula clown ( they are real sturdy, they survived the spike).:b16:

    I have three questions:
    1. There is a fine brownish, goldenish coating on the rocks.Am told it's normal and nothing to get hassled about. Am also told it'll give way to greener algae in sometime. Do I need to clean this up or will nature take it's own course?

    2. In the picture, can anyone comment on the stacking up of our rock? I feel there is enough spacing. What do you think?

    3. What kind of lighting is required for this period of cycling?

    Would appreciate your views.
    Thanks
    Ashima
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  2. #2
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    to Aquaria Canada
    all the way from India no less :b13:


    looks like you're off to a good start, like you have already been told algae blooms are very common in newly set up tanks. there isn't much you can do about the algae you have now but when it turns to the GHA ( Green Hair Algae ) you can start pulling it out by hand. you best defense is to make sure you are using good quality water ( RODI; Reverse Osmosis Deionized ) and try to limit the amount of nutrients going into the tank.

    i think you did a nice job of the aquascaping, lots of little holes for the fish to play around.

    you can reduce your lighting period to slow the algae growth but with some livestock in there you should still keep them on for part of the day, how long are they on now??
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


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  3. #3
    Moderator ShipWreck's Avatar
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    Welcome to AquariaCanada!

    I agree with A4twenty you are off to a good start. Have you been testing your parameters? Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate should be monitored so you can see the cycle taking its course. Once you have Nitrates and they are heading down towards zero you can start adding a clean up crew (snails, etc) and that will help remove the green algae that will be coming.

    On a side note have you researched the behaviour of damsels? Many people find them very mean, and territorial and they can bully other even larger fish to a point of extreme stress or even death.
    Rob
    -----
    Upgrade in the works! Keep looking for an update.


  4. #4
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    That's what my 1st tank (55g) looked like when I started. I was not using ro/di water and when I started over using ro/di I never got an algee bloom like that again.

  5. #5
    Senior Member ZXZXZ's Avatar
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    I agree , lose the damsels while you can. You will probably have to take out lots of the rock to get them. Better now then later when tank is full of corals and you become unhappy with the damsels. Besides that the aquascaping looks good!!!

  6. #6
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    Thank you and one more doubt to clear

    Thank you all of you for your response.

    The tank with the LR is two weeks old now and all parameters are reading Zero already.Ph is 8. Does this mean the cycling is over and done with? I understood that it takes a pretty long time to cycle thru.

    Also, the clown has a thin white film on one of it's eye... is it an infection or is it due to temp. fluctuation? Temp. flactuation being the only thing that has been going up and down. The temp varies between 82 - 86 F.

    The Damsels seem to be behaving themselves.They do come right up to my hand to grab the food though.

    Would appreciate your comments.
    Thanks
    Ashima

  7. #7
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    How come your temperature is fluctuating by so much? Is it just the heat from the lights that make it go up? Get some fans
    120g AGA~145 lbs Haitian LR~DA Reef Keeper 2 Controller~Dual 14k 250 DE MH's~Dual Overflows~Dual 250w Jager Heaters~Dual 96W Actinics~30g Sump/Refugium~Mag 12 Return~140 lbs Reefgrade Caribsea Aragonite~BubbleKing 180 Skimmer~Phosban Reactor~GEO Kalk Reactor~Powerheads:MP40w/Seio 820/modified Powersweep 270 with Hydor rotating deflector~Digital lighting timer for moon/fuge lighting~7 stage RODI filtration~Quarantine: modified 12.5g Marineland Eclipse

  8. #8
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    depending on the condition of the LR the tank MAY have cycled but i wouldn't count on it, it usually takes 1 - 2 months to fully cycle. i also agree the temp is getting really high and the fluctuations can be troublesome.

    can you post a pic of the sick clown?
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


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  9. #9
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    thank you all for so much info...my tank readings this morning are..
    ph 8,
    nitrite 0,
    nitrate 0,
    ammonia 0,
    phosphates 0,
    calcium 400,
    kh or alk -12dkh/214.8ppm.
    Salinity 29
    SPG - 1.022
    I use an API reef and salt water test kit. I have the room aircon running 24/7 now and a clip on fan on the tank.Temp. is now down to 80.6 F. The clown seems to have recovered and doing well now.

    I would like to add here that the place I got the LR from, claimed to have "cured" the rock well. Does that have a bearing on the cycling which seems to have completed?

    Also, I now see, or gently scrapping of the algae, a maroon deposit kind of a thing on some of the LR. Is this the start of Corallaine?

  10. #10
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    that will be a much better temperature

    yes using fully cured LR can reduce the cycle time but there will still usually be a cycle due to die off during transportation, you may be done but there could be another smaller one coming. having some fish in the tank and no nitrates is definitely a good sign though, just remember that if you're going to start adding more to go slow and let the tanks natural filtration catch up.

    it is to soon for coralline, sound more like cyanobacteria or more commonly called red slime algae. you can siphon it out with you water changes and look for a source of phosphates ( fuel for cyano ) as well as check your flow rates, cyano likes 'dead' spots. if you post a pic we can tell for sure :b15:

    if you intend to keep a reef ( inverts and corals ) you should raise your SG to 1.024 - 1.026 as they require a higher salinity.

    HTH
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

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