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  1. #1
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    150W or 250W MH over a 65G

    Hey guys!

    So we've done a little more research on metal halides, and have read of a few issues regaurding heat, cleaching of corals and such.....so we've come to the experts (again lol)(Thanks!)

    Our tank dimensions are 48"Lx18"Wx20"H (65G). We want to be able to incorporate a few sps in the tank along with lps and softies as well as an anemone, and possibly a clam (but not sure yet) in the future.

    Right now we have our 4x54w T5's (no individual reflectors) and what we want to do is push the T5's towards the back of the tank, and rig up a halide in the middle front. We believe this way we can have sps, clam, and anemone in the middle with our other lower light corals off to the sides mostly relying on the T5's.

    W've decided on buying a coralvue HQI becasue it comes with the pendant we need to be able to accomadate the halide without overshooting the tank, and because of the price.

    Which halide would you recomend we go with? the 150W HQI or the 250W HQI?

    The pendant will sit approx. 5-6" off the water surface (if everything goes as planned)

    Thanks for everyones input!

  2. #2
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    the 150W would work with your tank depth but you may have to keep some corals or clams higher in the tank to be successful. if you go with the 250W you should be able to keep them at any height in the tank with no issues.

    HTH
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


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  3. #3
    Senior Member DARK's Avatar
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    Why not run t5's? Less electricity and heat.

  4. #4
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    but if we get the 250 will we have problems with heat/coral bleaching, or other organisms dying of to strong light/heat?

    Dark do you mean jsut get more T5's?

  5. #5
    Senior Member DARK's Avatar
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    I'd load the top with as many DIY T5's as possible. And dont think that an anemone will stay where you want/plan it to, so just because you center MH doesnt mean its the best option.

  6. #6
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    so if we added another 4x54 lights, we'd be fine to keep basically anyhting?

  7. #7
    Senior Member DARK's Avatar
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    With T5 its VERY important to have good reflectors. As long as each tube has an individual reflector Im sure you could keep anything you wanted. IceCap makes a good polished reflector. I run 8 24" on my 4' 150g with good results even though I didnt pay attention and was sold crappy reflectors.

  8. #8
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    we kind of like the shimmer effect halides give, and we also hear they penetrate teh water better which would allow us to place other corals lower in the tank which helps becasue we don't have lots ledges

    Eventually we will make a conopy for the tank, and we were thinking of placing 2 of our current T5's in the back the halide/s in the middle and the other 2 T5's in the front, of course we would buy and incorporate individual reflectors for the T5's

  9. #9
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by megznsteve View Post
    but if we get the 250 will we have problems with heat/coral bleaching, or other organisms dying of to strong light/heat?
    i run (2) 400W 10K MH's on my 120, the key is to acclimate everything to the light and having my sump in the basement doesn't hurt either. i am probably going to change this to (1) 400 and some T5HO's on either side not because of the heat or light but i am looking at adding another tank and my hydro bill is already crazy. :b15:

    Quote Originally Posted by megznsteve View Post
    we kind of like the shimmer effect halides give, and we also hear they penetrate teh water better which would allow us to place other corals lower in the tank which helps becasue we don't have lots ledges
    at that depth with individual reflectors T5HO's are comparable to MH's but i really like the shimmer too :b7: for your width of tank 6 54W ( maybe even the 39W's but .... ) T5HO's would give you enough light to grow anything ( with the right bulb, not all actinic ) an maybe you could add two now and use the old fixture until you can upgrade??

    i'm not trying to sway you one way or the other, just giving you some ideas.
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

  10. #10
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    hmmmmm, we're starting to get headaches haha

    We still kinda wanted to tget the shimmer effect, but now are considering
    the more T5's idea.

    I think we're going to bite the bullet and build a canopy right away. So our options are......

    1. add 2 or 4 more T5's and incorporate our current unit and the new lights w/individual relfectors.

    2. get 1 metal halide either 150W or 250W and build the canopy to accomidate 2 T5's----MH----2 T5's. For now we are jsut going to place the one HQI pendant in the middle but might upgrade in the future by pushing the Pendant over and adding a second one (not much of a big deal to add another).

    We're leaning towards the 250W right now, unless we can find some disadvantages to it. Can we keep this HQI pendant about 5" of the water???
    Heres a picture of the kit. It has a Glass peice on the pendant also.

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