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  1. #1
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    keeping anemones

    I have a blue carpet anemone I picked up about 5 weeks ago. He's been doing great until the past week. He was opened up all day, in fact he'd keep his foot anchored to the rock and stretch for the lights. The past week however, I'll get home from work, and he's balled up. Within an hour he's opened up and looks great till lights out, then he shrinks up again and stays that way all night. Cause I'm not here during the day, I have no idea if he's doing this several times, but he's always closed when I get home, then open an hour later. I fed him a piece of krill the other day, and he took it no problem, but my concern is he used to be open all the time. Any advice?

  2. #2
    Moderator ShipWreck's Avatar
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    Let's start with the facts.

    How big is the tank?
    How old is the tank?
    What lighting do you have?
    Skimmer?
    Nitrite?
    Nitrate?
    PH?
    Alk?
    Temp?
    Water flow?

    Carpets require mature stable tanks with clean water, strong lighting and good water flow. More information will help us help you.
    Rob
    -----
    Upgrade in the works! Keep looking for an update.


  3. #3
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    [quote=ShipWreck;146378]Let's start with the facts.

    How big is the tank?
    46 bow
    How old is the tank?
    10mths
    What lighting do you have?
    4X39W t5 Nova Extreme
    Skimmer?
    Aqua C Remora Pro

    Nitrite? 0
    Nitrate? 0
    PH? 8.3
    Alk? 5-6 dKH Very Low
    Cal 350 Low
    Temp? 81
    Water flow? Skimmer, One maxi 900, one Koralia #1, One empty biowheel running carbon and phosguard.
    SG 1.022

    Now I've always had a hard time with calcium and alk, but my alk has never been this low. These numbers are from 10 minutes ago.

    I dose daily with C-Balance. I give the Alk in the morning and the Calcium in the evening. I use distilled water from the local grocery store (0 TDS). I used the local bottling company on the advice of my lfs, but changed thinking that might be my problem. I use instant ocean salt, mainly because thats all I can get locally, I used oceanic, but no difference. I top off daily and change 5 gallons (10%) every other week.

    Now I'm nervous cause of how low my alk is. It's never been this bad, and I don't know how much I can safely dose. I have seachem reef buffer too, but my PH is bang on.

  4. #4
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    Smile

    IMO, your tank is pretty small and subject to fluctuations.
    your lighting is pretty weak as well. not really a great home for that carpet.
    how many fish are in the tank [pollution]?

  5. #5
    Senior Member BIGGUNSAR's Avatar
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    lighting is your issue.
    tried to keep a carpet once, NO WAY...need a ton of light.
    in the wild, (it's where i get all my shat)
    the carpets usually hide in the turtle grass and the water is never more than 3 feet deep.

    So they get INTENSE tropical sun mon.

    If you want something on the cheap. Go to canadian tire (or home hardware store) and pick up a 600 watt halide lamp (you know, the kind you work on cars with, the square ones) and put that as close to side of the tank, near the top. Put it near your anemone. anemone's don't care what kind of light it is, just a BRIGHT light. Cuase there are microscopic organisms on him that feed him. And all they care about is bright light. That's how they reproduce.
    90 gal tank
    200 gal power fussion skimmer

    1 firefish, 1 wrasse, 1 juvi yellow tang, 1 watchman gobi
    70 pounds free Live sand,200 pounds free Live rock
    1 power heads,

  6. #6
    Moderator ShipWreck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGGUNSAR View Post
    If you want something on the cheap. Go to canadian tire (or home hardware store) and pick up a 600 watt halide lamp (you know, the kind you work on cars with, the square ones) and put that as close to side of the tank, near the top. Put it near your anemone. anemone's don't care what kind of light it is, just a BRIGHT light. Cuase there are microscopic organisms on him that feed him. And all they care about is bright light. That's how they reproduce.
    I have to disagree with this statement. They do require bright light but they also require the right spectrum of bright light or it is wasted. The microscopic organisms are actually symbiotic algaes that are photosynthetic, just like a plant. Cheap bulbs for general purpose do not include the correct gasses/filters/etc to create the correct spectrum which is why you can't use them for corals either.

    I would agree with JohnRock that your tank is probably fluctuating too much causing issues with the carpet. I assume that the T5 fixture is High Output(HO) so they may be okay if the anemone if close enough to the lights and you have good quality lights, with most being in the 10k range.
    Rob
    -----
    Upgrade in the works! Keep looking for an update.


  7. #7
    Senior Member BIGGUNSAR's Avatar
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    well what i just suggested kept my carpet alive, but it was costing too much to run it. So i put the carpet back into the sea. And I bought the 1200 watt halides, becuase getting real lighting on this island is a pain.

    So i tried that ghetto solution. And before i turned on those lights, the carpet was doing badly with my lighting arrangement.
    It picked up in 3 days after turning on those halides for 5 hours a day.

    Who know's maybe your right. I am just speaking from my experience.
    90 gal tank
    200 gal power fussion skimmer

    1 firefish, 1 wrasse, 1 juvi yellow tang, 1 watchman gobi
    70 pounds free Live sand,200 pounds free Live rock
    1 power heads,

  8. #8
    Moderator ShipWreck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGGUNSAR View Post
    well what i just suggested kept my carpet alive,
    The success with carpets is not measured in days or weeks but months and years. All the items listed above are required for an anemone to grow/live/thrive over the long run.
    Rob
    -----
    Upgrade in the works! Keep looking for an update.


  9. #9
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    haddoni's don't need nearly as much light or flow as a gigantea, if i remeber correctly you got it at the ORG and they only had a green haddoni at time so i'm going to assume your's is an S. gigantea ( maybe a pic to tell for sure )

    the first thing i see, your SG 1.022 is way to low for inverts, it should be 1.024 - 1.026. you should top up with SW until you achieve this.

    while the Ca and alk shouldn't be much of a problem for the anemone, you should increase the amount you are dosing to get them into check as well.

    anemones need stability so make any changes slowly.

    how often and how much are you feeding and are you sure he is eating it??

    if he is S. gigantea, he needs a lot of light ( many swear 250W halides as minimum ), what spectrum are the T5's and how old?? they also require a lot more flow than other anemones, i think you are a little low in that category as well. the anemone should be flapping in the chaotic / random water movement. i know i pm'ed you this vid but i will post here as well so other can see for reference. as someone else pointed out gigantea's are found in very shallow water, therefore lots of light and lots of flow.

    this is my 3 month old gigantea, 20" under 400w halides with a tank flow of just over 40X turn over.

    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


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  10. #10
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Melonbob View Post
    Now I've always had a hard time with calcium and alk, but my alk has never been this low. These numbers are from 10 minutes ago.
    just a bit of insight here, have you tested your Mg??? these guys work together and if your Mg is out of whack, it is always harder to maintains Ca and Alk.

    HTH :b2:
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

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