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  1. #1
    Member KingFisher.905's Avatar
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    "Overflow Box Help!"

    Hi I am trying to start a sump tank I have a 29 gal Marineland Eclispe 3 drilling the tank is not an option for me so I figure I go with an overfow box but I hear that they tend to fail and is not really recommaded. But I have no other option. My question is in your opion what is the best overflow box to use? also I hear something that is call a ball valve and a check vale suppose to prevent a back siphon. How do these come into play? Since I live in a rented apartment I cannot for the sake of me afford to have A Noah's type flood. At the back of the eclispe hood are two utility slots I plan on using one for the output and the other for the return. also what is a good in sump skimmer to use? and also I need a good relyable water pump.
    Thanks and God Bless!!:b3:

  2. #2
    Senior Member upthecreekwithoutapaddle's Avatar
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    i use the CPR overflows and connect an aqualifter pump. these don't fail. in the event of power outage etc. once the power comes back on the aqualifter starts the siphon. next if the aqualifter should fail the siphon wont break unless the conection is broken. so you by accident turn off the aqualifter while the overflow is operating the siphon stays.
    http://mops.ca/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/...0ce+1231640044
    http://mops.ca/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/...g+-p+DOOS-1137

  3. #3
    Senior Member carrhd's Avatar
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    I used a home made siphon box on my 25G for many years. I drilled a hole in the top of the siphon and put in a small air hose check valve. From there I went to a dedicated power head inside the 25G. The power head would draw out any air bubbles that got into the siphon (it always happens) so that the siphon wouldn't break. It is VERY important to use a siphon that has an outside chamber to maintain the level in the overflow. If your siphon doesn't have the leveling chamber then if the power goes off the siphon drains the overflow and the siphon breaks.

    I can draw a picture and post if it anyone wants.

    Having said all of that, drilling your tank is a MUCH better option. It's relatively quick and relatively easy.

    Hank.
    220G mixed reef main, 30 G (3 x 10) brood/grow-out, 25 G secondary, 6 G frag with shared sump

    Return Pump: Iwaki MD55RLT
    Water Movement: Tunze Turbelle Stream 6060, 4 x MaxiJet 1200
    Lighting: 60" Outer Orbit dual 250 W 10k HQI and quad 48" T5HO Actinic
    Skimmer: Precision Marine Bullet-2 with Iwaki MD55RLT, WC610 waste collector, and gate valve

    Experience: Fresh since 1976 - Marine since 1987

    Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/hank.carr

  4. #4
    Senior Member carrhd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carrhd View Post
    I can draw a picture and post if it anyone wants.
    Here's a picture of the overflow. It's drawn in a line to make it clear what is happening. Normally the inside and outside boxes would be connected together and hanging over the back of the tank.

    Note the baffle in the outside tank that maintains the water level in the overflow. If the power goes out the water in the aquarium drains down to the top of the inside overflow box. The water in the overflow drains down to the level of the baffle. Once the water has drained out of the overflow to the level of the baffle the water stays in the siphon waiting for the lift pump to start up again.



    http://www.dna.ca/aquarium/overflow.jpg

    One other question...why are you having a sump at all? The sump isn't absolutely necessary. If it was me and I was setting up a small thank without drilling it I would forgoe the sump all together in favour of lots of in-tank flow and I would concentrate on hiding all of the mechanicals in the main tank.

    Just another thought.

    Hank.
    220G mixed reef main, 30 G (3 x 10) brood/grow-out, 25 G secondary, 6 G frag with shared sump

    Return Pump: Iwaki MD55RLT
    Water Movement: Tunze Turbelle Stream 6060, 4 x MaxiJet 1200
    Lighting: 60" Outer Orbit dual 250 W 10k HQI and quad 48" T5HO Actinic
    Skimmer: Precision Marine Bullet-2 with Iwaki MD55RLT, WC610 waste collector, and gate valve

    Experience: Fresh since 1976 - Marine since 1987

    Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/hank.carr

  5. #5
    Senior Member upthecreekwithoutapaddle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carrhd View Post

    http://www.dna.ca/aquarium/overflow.jpg

    One other question...why are you having a sump at all? The sump isn't absolutely necessary. If it was me and I was setting up a small thank without drilling it I would forgoe the sump all together in favour of lots of in-tank flow and I would concentrate on hiding all of the mechanicals in the main tank.

    Just another thought.

    Hank.
    i have this type of OF on my larger tank. and very satisfied with the way it works. still the siphon is hooked to my main return to keep the siphon going after pwr failure etc.

    as for the sump--thats a good point Hank. don't really need a sump but i spend more time looking at what goes on in it, crabs worms etc then lookin at my main display. love my sump.

  6. #6
    Member KingFisher.905's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carrhd View Post
    Here's a picture of the overflow. It's drawn in a line to make it clear what is happening. Normally the inside and outside boxes would be connected together and hanging over the back of the tank.

    Note the baffle in the outside tank that maintains the water level in the overflow. If the power goes out the water in the aquarium drains down to the top of the inside overflow box. The water in the overflow drains down to the level of the baffle. Once the water has drained out of the overflow to the level of the baffle the water stays in the siphon waiting for the lift pump to start up again.



    http://www.dna.ca/aquarium/overflow.jpg

    One other question...why are you having a sump at all? The sump isn't absolutely necessary. If it was me and I was setting up a small thank without drilling it I would forgoe the sump all together in favour of lots of in-tank flow and I would concentrate on hiding all of the mechanicals in the main tank.

    Just another thought.

    Hank.

    Hi thanks for all the helpful advices! The reason I wanted a sump tank is to increase the water volume and put all the equipments in there heaters etc.
    Since i have a Eclispe it is next to impossable to have a skimmer and also I like the idea of having a refugium I don't need as much live rocks, mostly just a few base rocks in the sump and a few premium grade rock in the display tank. Thinking of also have a DSB. Again thanks for the help. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

  7. #7
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    In MOP, since it's just a 29 gal standard size tank we're talking about we're not talking $$ for replacing, I say get same tank with an overlfow built in and drilled and just swap tanks, in the end less headache of the siphon breaking. I've personally started off with a CPR and yes they seem to be reliable I wasn't too pleased from the noise level as it would sound more like a flushing toilet and tunning it wasn't fun.
    75G Starphire 24X30x24 Coast to Coast Overflow

    Return Pump: T4 Velocity (1255 Gph)
    Water Movement: 2 x Tunze 1045ís on a wave function from my reefkeeper 2
    Lighting: Giesemann Infinity 250w HQI 14k + 4x24w T5 Actinics
    Skimmer: Bubble King 180 Mini
    Calcium: Dual Chamber reactor with dosing pimp and Milwakee PH control

    Ozone: Red Sea Aquazone plus 100mg
    Cooling: 1/10hp Pacific Coast Chiller
    Other: ATO, RODI, Phosban

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