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  1. #1
    Junior Member willsnano's Avatar
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    beginer softies...

    Hello,
    This is my first time ever writting to Frags A lot forum so I ask that you bare with me.
    I was wondering if someone could suggest a few really nice and colorful beginer type of soft corals. Ones that are not harmful to mushrooms, green stars, and a kenya Tree. (these are what I have in my 12 gal. tank.
    My lighting is considered as HO flourescents with NO MH. The Tank is the AQUA POD. I believe the lights are around 27 watts - single end flourescent
    A photo of the corals you suggest would be wonderful in assisting me in deciding what I wish to purchase, please.
    I should also mention that I have 3 pieces of live rock in my tank as well.
    Please e-mail me at: wilparso@yahoo.ca with your suggestion
    Greatly appreciated.
    Will

  2. #2
    liv
    liv is offline
    Former Moderator liv's Avatar
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    frag-a-lot is a sponsor.
    you canot post in this section.

    I have moved your post to a more appropriate area.

    moving.. so temporarily out of SW :b8:
    planning next tank, possibly 60x30x20 on 2x plasma.
    updated: 2011/05/30

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by willsnano View Post
    Hello,
    This is my first time ever writting to Frags A lot forum so I ask that you bare with me.
    I was wondering if someone could suggest a few really nice and colorful beginer type of soft corals. Ones that are not harmful to mushrooms, green stars, and a kenya Tree. (these are what I have in my 12 gal. tank.
    My lighting is considered as HO flourescents with NO MH. The Tank is the AQUA POD. I believe the lights are around 27 watts - single end flourescent
    A photo of the corals you suggest would be wonderful in assisting me in deciding what I wish to purchase, please.
    I should also mention that I have 3 pieces of live rock in my tank as well.
    Please e-mail me at: wilparso@yahoo.ca with your suggestion
    Greatly appreciated.
    Will
    If you have mushrooms, a keyna tree and green stars, you are on the right track for beginner corals. If those seem healthy and your water parameters are adequate you can consider adding xenia, palys, or zoas.

    What is your water conditons? Nitrate? Calcium? Alk? PH?
    Also when you say "three pieces of rock" how many pounds do you mean?

  4. #4
    Junior Member willsnano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJ_Tsin View Post
    If you have mushrooms, a keyna tree and green stars, you are on the right track for beginner corals. If those seem healthy and your water parameters are adequate you can consider adding xenia, palys, or zoas.

    What is your water conditons? Nitrate? Calcium? Alk? PH?
    Also when you say "three pieces of rock" how many pounds do you mean?
    Hi,
    I test my water for ammonia and it is at 0. Sometimes but not very often, I get a level of 0.1 and add an additive ( Seachem - PRIME) to minimize that level back to 0. If this does not work, I do a water change of aprox. 21/2 to 3 gal.
    As far as my Calcium and Alk/PH goes, I have not done testing on but plan to soon.
    I know that KENT Marine Has a product called liquid calcium which boosts the growth of Coraline algae. I do have coraline algae growth but it does not grow heavily like I would like it to.
    Thank you for your help. I will be interested in your reply.
    Will

  5. #5
    Junior Member willsnano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by willsnano View Post
    Hi,
    I test my water for ammonia and it is at 0. Sometimes but not very often, I get a level of 0.1 and add an additive ( Seachem - PRIME) to minimize that level back to 0. If this does not work, I do a water change of aprox. 21/2 to 3 gal.
    As far as my Calcium and Alk/PH goes, I have not done testing on but plan to soon.
    I know that KENT Marine Has a product called liquid calcium which boosts the growth of Coraline algae. I do have coraline algae growth but it does not grow heavily like I would like it to.
    Thank you for your help. I will be interested in your reply.
    Will
    ...Further more, to the question about live rock - you asked how much live rock I have in the tank. A: the amount I have in wieght is aprox. 10-12 Ibs. each piece is aprox half the size of a loaf of bread.
    You suggested I could have zoas in my tank. In fact I did have a frag of zoas in my tank. (4-6 pods on the frag) and had recently traded it for a purple mushroom. The reason I exchanged it was because I did not think the lighting in my tank was adiquit.
    Will

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by willsnano View Post
    ...Further more, to the question about live rock - you asked how much live rock I have in the tank. A: the amount I have in wieght is aprox. 10-12 Ibs. each piece is aprox half the size of a loaf of bread.
    You suggested I could have zoas in my tank. In fact I did have a frag of zoas in my tank. (4-6 pods on the frag) and had recently traded it for a purple mushroom. The reason I exchanged it was because I did not think the lighting in my tank was adiquit.
    Will

    You probably should not have any corals unless your alk and calcium are in check. Start slowly adding both to the tank until you have adequate levels.

    Also just because ammonia is zero, it doesn't mean you have no nitrate.

    There is tons of reading on the net about proper water parameters, and lighting choice is too opinionated to say if the light is enough or not. Just search for these topics and you will find what you need.

    I really reccomend dosing calcium and alk buffer asap though, just dont do anything quickly because it will shock everything in your tank. Take it slow and raise those levels up!

  7. #7
    Junior Member willsnano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJ_Tsin View Post
    You probably should not have any corals unless your alk and calcium are in check. Start slowly adding both to the tank until you have adequate levels.

    Also just because ammonia is zero, it doesn't mean you have no nitrate.

    There is tons of reading on the net about proper water parameters, and lighting choice is too opinionated to say if the light is enough or not. Just search for these topics and you will find what you need.

    I really reccomend dosing calcium and alk buffer asap though, just dont do anything quickly because it will shock everything in your tank. Take it slow and raise those levels up!
    Thank you kindly for your input. All weekend long i was concerned about my calcium levels. I will be getting a calcium kit later today to check the levels at which it stands. Hopefully, I will be within range of my corals' needs. (Mushroom, Kenya tree and green star)
    I guess it is not a good thing to do but I usually go by the amount of growth of coralline algae on the glass and other objects aside from the live rock in the tank. Probably a small reference source but not sufficiant.
    Thanks again,
    Will

  8. #8
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    to Aquaria Canada


    for those corals in a 12G tank Ca and Alk levels aren't going to be much of a problem, setting up a regular water change schedule would probably take care of it.

    AJ makes a good point though, only testing NH3 isn't going to be enough. before getting a Ca or Alk test kit i would get a refractometer ( SG ), pH and NO3 test kit.

    how old is your system?
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


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  9. #9
    Junior Member willsnano's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4twenty View Post

    to Aquaria Canada


    for those corals in a 12G tank Ca and Alk levels aren't going to be much of a problem, setting up a regular water change schedule would probably take care of it.

    AJ makes a good point though, only testing NH3 isn't going to be enough. before getting a Ca or Alk test kit i would get a refractometer ( SG ), pH and NO3 test kit.

    how old is your system?
    Hi,
    Well, I have a hydrometer for SG. It reads aprox. 1.045
    My next step is the pH and No3 kit. The aquarium is aprox. 13 months old and my water change schedule goes like this; Last week I changed the water (aprox. 8 qrts.) on Friday. This week I will change it on Thursday. Next week- Wednesday and so on and so forth.
    I find that this really works well instead of just doing it on Saturdays or just Sunday. Rotating water changes IMO, work very well.
    Will

  10. #10
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by willsnano View Post
    Well, I have a hydrometer for SG. It reads aprox. 1.045
    hopefully a typo, for a reef it's recommended to maintain a SG of 1.024 - 1.026

    hydrometers are very inaccurate and commonly off by a lot. do you know any one else that could confirm your SG?? ( LFS / friend with a refractometer, they are much more accurate / reliable ).

    weekly water changes are great :b15:
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

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