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Thread: Help red slime!

  1. #1
    Member KingFisher.905's Avatar
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    Help red slime!

    getting a really bad outbreak of red slime sorry don't have a pic does products like red slime remover work? are there any risk to using it?

  2. #2
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    yes it does work but red slime remover is a bactericide, indiscriminately killing all bacteria and it's really just a band aid solution. you need to find and remove the source of the P04 as well as few other tips/ trick that can help.

    how much flow do you have?? and how is it situated in the tank??

    what and how much do you feed??

    what water are you using???

    how is your bioload???

    are you running a skimmer?
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


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    Member KingFisher.905's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4twenty View Post
    yes it does work but red slime remover is a bactericide, indiscriminately killing all bacteria and it's really just a band aid solution. you need to find and remove the source of the P04 as well as few other tips/ trick that can help.

    how much flow do you have?? and how is it situated in the tank??

    what and how much do you feed??

    what water are you using???

    how is your bioload???

    are you running a skimmer?
    hi thanks for the fast response I have 1 Vortech mp 10 pump near the surface and getting one more on Monday my tank is only a 29 gal yeah it a little over kill also have a sump with a Aqua C skimmer and JBJ UV sterlizare I am using the Tap water filter DI I have about 3 blennies a clown fish and 2 cardinal variouse invertibrate including feather duster I guess I over feed until my tank becomes a snow globe. Any help would be appreciated!

  4. #4
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    cyano likes areas of higher CO2, increasing the 'area' of flow will help oxygenate the water, no dead spots.

    could you explain your water a bit better?? ( but it sounds like a contributor )

    how much do you feed daily ( approx. ) and of what? ( frozen )

    how much and what for a clean up crew??

    basically you need to increase and disperse ( more so ) the flow through your tank and remove the source of P04 ( over feeding / over stocked / water source / ??? ). you can run a P04 remover to get rid of the excess but without finding / correcting the source first, this can get expensive. also with your smaller volume of water ( relatively ), water changes can be used to help rid your tank of the P04.
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

  5. #5
    Member KingFisher.905's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4twenty View Post
    cyano likes areas of higher CO2, increasing the 'area' of flow will help oxygenate the water, no dead spots.

    could you explain your water a bit better?? ( but it sounds like a contributor )

    how much do you feed daily ( approx. ) and of what? ( frozen )

    how much and what for a clean up crew??

    basically you need to increase and disperse ( more so ) the flow through your tank and remove the source of P04 ( over feeding / over stocked / water source / ??? ). you can run a P04 remover to get rid of the excess but without finding / correcting the source first, this can get expensive. also with your smaller volume of water ( relatively ), water changes can be used to help rid your tank of the P04.

    The water I m using is DI water tap water filter by Pharmacital I feed a mixture of frozen mysis/blood worms DT plankton, Selcon, garlic guard, baby brine shrimps and flying fish roes (fish eggs) and finally algea sheets DT oyster eggs I guess this is a bit to much but just wanted to make sure everything gets fed like my feather dusters and my mandarin fish and I also have a TLF phospan reactor and a refuguim with Chaeto currently running a sump with filter flosh, chemipure elite, purigen and Black Diamond carbon and phosguard in a media bage. Water change is done bi-weekly about 10-15% last time I check my water paramter were within acceaptable range calcium was a little low so I added Calfication and purple up.

  6. #6
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    you feed all those in one day???

    do you rinse any of the frozen foods??


    this and your larger ( relative to the tank, 6 ( 7 with mandarin ) fish in a 29G ) bioload is likely the source of phosphates. your going to need to cut back on your feeding, look closely at your bioload and increase the flow throughout the tank to stop the spread of the cyano.


    HTH
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

  7. #7
    Member KingFisher.905's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4twenty View Post
    you feed all those in one day???

    do you rinse any of the frozen foods??


    this and your larger ( relative to the tank, 6 ( 7 with mandarin ) fish in a 29G ) bioload is likely the source of phosphates. your going to need to cut back on your feeding, look closely at your bioload and increase the flow throughout the tank to stop the spread of the cyano.


    HTH
    ok thanks will do but how do I make sure everything is well fed?

  8. #8
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    they don't really 'need' a lot of food.....


    i feed my fish ( 5 ) a small pinch of flakes once or twice a day. every other day i feed a small piece of nori ( ~2" x 4" ) for the tang and blenny and on the other days i replace one of the flake feedings with ~ a dime size piece of PE mysis ( soaked in garlic or selcon ). a lot of people don't even feed everyday.


    try feeding just a little bit at a time and if you need to target feed the mandarin ( oyster eggs, right?? ), try using a small neck jar ( to allow him in but not the larger fish ) and place the food inside.


    HTH
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

  9. #9
    Member KingFisher.905's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4twenty View Post
    they don't really 'need' a lot of food.....


    i feed my fish ( 5 ) a small pinch of flakes once or twice a day. every other day i feed a small piece of nori ( ~2" x 4" ) for the tang and blenny and on the other days i replace one of the flake feedings with ~ a dime size piece of PE mysis ( soaked in garlic or selcon ). a lot of people don't even feed everyday.


    try feeding just a little bit at a time and if you need to target feed the mandarin ( oyster eggs, right?? ), try using a small neck jar ( to allow him in but not the larger fish ) and place the food inside.


    HTH
    thanks a lot! I was always worry they were'nt getting enough to eat now I know that why I m getting a lot of red slime and hair algeas.

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