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  1. #1
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    Ph lvl while cycling tank

    Im cycling my tank with uncured live rock.. the temp is 80 (27) and SG 1.023, and water is 12x roll over..

    ammonia is at .30 right now after 1 week..

    and i can't even get a normal ph reading?

    i tried 2 tests and i cannot indentify the color it gives lol...

    one test it give a brown/purple color..

    the other give a dark kaki green color lol..

    none for the tests have that colour..

    any thoughts?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Fisherman's Avatar
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    Also I have 20 pounds of crushed / arg sub..
    15 pounds of uncured live rock (curing)
    powerhead 150 GPH
    HOB 150 GPH
    100 watt sub heater
    15w NO light (130W PC) on order..

    Hope that helps..

  3. #3
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    First thing to do is get that ammonia level down. Do some water change. Are you skimming?? If not it would be a good idea to start. Doing so will help you keep ammonia in check. You don't want to kill off too much of the life on your rock. Of course the more that dies off ... the higher the ammonia goes and a kill off cycle of ever increasing ammonia and death can occur ... before bacteria can correct the situation. . As for your PH test .. are you using the PH high test or the PH low test. There are 2 types and ether one can be supplied with the kits or by them selfs. Make sure your PH test kit is for the correct range.
    Rob

  4. #4
    Senior Member Fisherman's Avatar
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    i am using ph high test.. doesn't help.

    also the amonnia is pretty low compared to other cycling tanks.

    I cycled my 55Gal woth damsels once and my ammonia was almost 1.0

    and everything cycled threw!!

    but the ph test i used was saltwater only PH 7.4 - 8.4

    and can't determine the ph lvl by colors.. i used ph low test and the color was darker then the 7.8

  5. #5
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    yes but keep in mind that fish can handle a lot more ammonia then the simpler life forms that will be on the rock. The book I use as a water quality guide states that fish will start to have respiratory troubles at at ammonia levels of as low as .2 -.3. Take some of your water out in a CLEAN well rinsed glass and pump some air into it. If after a few min you can get a proper PH reading then you know that you need to get more oxygen into the water. Decomposition uses up oxygen quickly.
    Rob

  6. #6
    Senior Member Fisherman's Avatar
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    ahhh im adding a surface aggitating power head tommorrow..

    also i will remove some water!! and refill tank

    thanks!!

  7. #7
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    OK .... as per this same guide I use. lab quality tests showing BROWNISH PURPLE test results = 8.6 - 8.7 while DARK PURPLE = over 8.7 GREEN = 7.5 - 7.8 with SEA GREEN being a little higher.
    Rob

  8. #8
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    Hello

    I'm always cylcing live rock for customers tanks. Personally I dont do any water changes until the nitrate is present. I also don't skim these tanks or any reef tank for that matter. I don't understand why by changeing water in an attemt to save invertrabrate life, you then skim there enviroment which robs them of some of there requirements they need to live. Also buy not changing your water you create rock that has a huge bio-load capacity and is much more stable for the addition of fish and other creatures at the end of the cylce.

    As for your Ph what test kits are you using? As for adding surface aggitation it is always a good idea in a marine tank. But it will have no effect on your Ph if the air surrounding your tank is high in co2. Your water in your tank and the air surrounding gain a equalibrium. If where you live is closed up tight, your enviroment this time of year can have a increse of co2 causing a reduction in your tank Ph. Also remember that the nutrfication process in it's self is a very acidic process and at this stage you are knee deep in it.

    Stan

  9. #9
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    I must say that I tend to disagree with the too much co2 in the air in the home so as to have an effect on ones tank. Older homes leak like sieves and newer home draw large volume of fresh air into their heating systems to prevent this from happening. Whether or not CO2 is heavier or lighter then the air around us it would take a LOT OF it to be stagnate over our tanks water surface. The average tanks water surface is about 4 ½ feet off the floor and 2 to 3 feet from the ceiling. As for changing out water when ammonium increases …. well IMO it’s like the oil filter commercial “ you can pay me now or you can pay me later”. By removing ammonium you are nipping the situation in the bud and preventing it from being turned in to nitrite, also poison and then into nitrate. I do not believe you will starve the bacteria of the ammonium they need to colonize the rock. Once they have a good foot hold they multiply or decrease quickly to handle the load they are subjected to. If fact some people believe that having too much bacteria in the tank for the load will lead to die off and when large amounts of bacteria die off they release toxins that have ill effects on tank life.
    This is of course only my opinion as I am not a mad scientist …I’m just mad.
    Rob

  10. #10
    Senior Member Fisherman's Avatar
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    WOW lots of info lol..

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