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  1. #1
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    need to setup a qt/hospital tank due to ich help!

    My hippo tang is infested with ich and my yellow tang has black ich. I am fed up even though it's been only 2 weeks. I dont ever want this problem. I am not quite sure on how i am going to proceed. I have:
    2 ocellaris clowns
    3 chromis
    1 blenny
    1 yellow tang 4"
    1 hippo tang 2.5"

    How big of a tank do i need? i was planning on a 30g, is this enough? How do i fill it up? I am gonna do a 10g water change on my 130g tonight so i will take that 10g and add it in my qt/hospial tank. do i just mix up another 20g and add it to my old water? I was told to take a sponge from my sump and add it in the tank for bacteria. how big does it have to be? how often do i have to change the water and what proportion? should i do hyposalinity in the qt tank with a fresh water dip or formalin on the tangs. or just the dips with normal salinity levels in the qt tank? Will a 170gph power head be enough in the 30g?

  2. #2
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    Is your intention to QT all the fish? or just those that actually have ICK? If all fish are being moved out to a QT tank the 30 gallon will do the job. You will however have to keep a close eye on the water quality.
    YES water changes can be done from your display tank to the QT when necessary just be sure to adjust the salinity accordingly. For the first fill do 10 gallons a day for 3 days from your display setup. For other water changes do them in EXACT quantities so you and dose properly if you intend to medicate as part of the treatment.
    The QT setup will need to be a BARE bottom setup with a few PVC or NON POROUS ceramic objects for the fish to hide in and relate to. You will need a heater and just enough light to view the fish. Add to this a small power head to keep thing in motion and a filter with its media seeded from the display tanks filter or sump. Your off to the races on the basic setup.
    Rob

  3. #3
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    OK now the other questions you asked ... The sponge need only be big enough to seed the small filter that you will use in your QT setup. Any hang on the back power filter that is designed to manage a 30 gallon tank will do nicely. If you have a power filter use the sponge that goes in it. USE NO CARBON if your using meds.
    I would not dip the fish. They will be stressed out enough just for being moved to the QT setup.
    Water change as often as necessary as determined by WATER TEST RESULTS. Keep a LOG and you will see a pattern develop and then you can follow the schedule that will present its self from the log.
    Rob

  4. #4
    Senior Member volitan's Avatar
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    IMO opininion and i had my share of experiences with disease and ich,You should give them a freshwater bath with same temp and ph...IMPORTANT.If you try formalin do the EXACT instruction and not more.....but i would go fresh only for now.

    I got a uv light and that small investment was sure well worth every penny of it...never got any parasites since.

    If you go with the uv you can stir up the sand to get the parasites floating so that the uv light gets the parasites.

    For me that was a winning combination....a few fresh water bath and a uv light.

    Tangs are prone to ich especially your hyppo.

    http://www.petsforum.com/personal/tr...marineich.html


    http://www.petsforum.com/personal/tr...osalinity.html

    I have never done hyposalinity but i do know that you have to do it slowly and need a refractometer to ensure correct sallinity.And its a long treatment.I would either take your sick fish and quanrantine it or take your healthy fish to another tank.

    If you go hypposalinity i would do it in the main tank to get every single parasite die in there.They can be everywere in you sand, in the water.
    Derik...

  5. #5
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    someone LOVES their UV light and I wish more in the hobby would start using them. Compared to other types of equipment they are CHEAP. 2 dead fish, depending on type, and the cost of trying to save them can cover the cost of a UV unit.
    Rob

  6. #6
    Senior Member volitan's Avatar
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    oh yes...to me its a clear piece of mind...especially with my job i am often away for a month at a time...this saturday i am going to thunder bay for a month and having the uv light,the orp monitor,the ph meter,the pinpoint thermometer and the salinity meter is excellent cause when i call my girlfriend she just tells me the readings and i know everything is fine.....
    Derik...

  7. #7
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    how much is a uv light? Where do i place it? in the sump? how would it kill ich?
    "The significant problems we face cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them."
    - Albert Einstein (1879-1955)

  8. #8
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    UV sterilizers vary in pricing depending on brand, type (HOT or In line) and the water volume they can handle per hour. They are usually sold to match common tank sizes. They can be setup on a closed loop if flow rate is not too high or more commonly in line so water returning to the tank from the sump goes through it.
    Rob

  9. #9
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    what type of food do you feed your fish?do you use selcon,garlic extreme,do you use differnt foods?

  10. #10
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    Mike you need patiance do not rush nature.you ll always have problems.you just started your tank not long ago.acclimate your stock for about 2 hours min at the drip.

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