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  1. #11
    Senior Member
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    Terry,
    Kinda like in this pic?
    It's on the Durso website. It's under the heading "External Overflow Standpipe design". I am using the street L design that turns down into the overflow myself, except in my case, the entire standpipe is in the overflow. Works like a charm!!
    I also just thought I'd add that in the pic, he has drilled the hole in the overflow to have the standpipe behind the overflow box, but you can just as easily drill it on one of the sides of the overflow box to take less room. It really doesn't matter how it's oriented, just as long as it's watertight!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Help! Overflow not working-standpipe-doug.jpg  

  2. #12
    ijo
    ijo is offline
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    Has anyone tried this compact version of the standpipe?

    Stockman (Click the picture for larger image)


    Here is the website

    IJO

  3. #13
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    17
    Originally posted by Toutouche
    Terry,
    Kinda like in this pic?
    It's on the Durso website. It's under the heading "External Overflow Standpipe design". I am using the street L design that turns down into the overflow myself, except in my case, the entire standpipe is in the overflow. Works like a charm!!
    I also just thought I'd add that in the pic, he has drilled the hole in the overflow to have the standpipe behind the overflow box, but you can just as easily drill it on one of the sides of the overflow box to take less room. It really doesn't matter how it's oriented, just as long as it's watertight!!
    That's exactly how I want to have it. The only problem now is that I'm having a heck of a hard time finding the plumbing parts. The 'T' fitting that would have to replace the existing 'L' fitting from the bulkhead is a friction fit. It's slightly over 1/4" O.D. to unsure the fit is snug into the bulkhead. The 'T''s and 'L''s that I can find (Home Depot, Totem, Canadian Tire), are all exactly 1/4" O.D., and this would not ensure a sealed fit. What I might do is silicone around the perimiter of the fittings where they meet the bulkhead to ensure no leaking.

    What I have done in the meantime, however, is place a 3' long, 3/8" clear hose down the hole that I drilled in the top of the bulkhead 'L'. This has eliminated 90% of the gurgling noise for the meantime, and the water flow is the same. Although this works great, I still would like to have the Durso Standpipe sytem as it would eliminate all the noise and create better water flow.


  4. #14
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    Ivan,
    Yes, I've used that type also for someone I setup in an overflow that was just 4" square looking down into it. It works very nice too. That is a Stockman pipe. Actually, I'm going to get that guy and about 2 others to join as members here also.

    Tervill,
    Why are you having problems finding the right parts? Is it because of the material you want, are you using Schedule 40 or 80? My Durso pipe is built out of the regular black ABS sole at H Depot for house plumbing. It is fine to use too. It will also fit into standard bulkheads and such. Less expensive too.
    If you want to silicone it, that is fine too because there is no pressure in the standpipe, just as long as it is sealed properly, you shouldn't have a problem. Thing is though, if you ever want to remove it or twist it for adjusting it's position, you're stuck ( literally: ). I recommend you just buildup the pipe a bit with teflon tape till you can pressure fit it, and if you will worry about it still falling off, once you have it in position and pressure fitted on, wrap a bit more Teflom tape around it to hold it tighter and this will also help with the seal.

  5. #15
    Junior Member
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    Aug 2003
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    Toutouche,

    I'm not sure what the difference is between Schedule 40 and 80. I never even thought of using black ABS ! I went home at lunch today to put an 'L' in place of the screened bulkhead basket. Not sure why, but it didn't work.... probably because I don't have the 'T' connection, just the 'L' from the existing bulkhead. The inflow exeeded the outflow, so I put the basket back on and it equalized again. I hope that a 1" I.D. oppending will be enough for the 'L' fitting for the Durso system to work. That is the maximum size I can go due to the bulkhead oppending .

  6. #16
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    I should add that my durso is also made of black ABS that I got at the local homedepot style store.

    My bulkhead is 1", and the durso is 1.5" black ABS. There is a 1" to 1.5" adaptor there as well that allowed me to screw the durso into the bulkhead.

    You should be able to pick it all up in the plumbing section.
    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

  7. #17
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    I found all the parts that I need at Home Hardware (just around the corner from my house!). I assembled it late last night....now I'm just waiting for the glue to dry. After work today I'm going to hook it up, amongst other things such as installing my lights, varnishing my light hood, and performing water tests to check on the cycling process. My tank has been cycling for 4 days now and the ammonia levels are sky-rocketing. So far so good :bounce: :bounce: !

  8. #18
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    Trevill,
    Understandibly..., you sound anxious!! Just wanted to say... BE PATIENT.., I know it's hard, but believe me, it's worth being patient!!!

  9. #19
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    Originally posted by Toutouche
    Trevill,
    Understandibly..., you sound anxious!! Just wanted to say... BE PATIENT.., I know it's hard, but believe me, it's worth being patient!!!
    Thanks for the advice.... You're right; being patient in this hobby is a must. :fish3:

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