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  1. #11
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    These are the Coralife endcaps...

    Pack of 4 (2 lights) for $15-$20...



    And these are the IceCap ones:
    Pack of 2 (1 light) for $15-$20...

    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

  2. #12
    Senior Member
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    You can also get regular endcaps from HD for $5 for 2 pairs and just seal the ends that are exposed with duct taping. (the aluminum type)
    I have used that for 9 months now and no salt creep has been noticed. In fact it is a tighter seal than my Corallife waterproof endcaps that I used to have.
    Bulb are about 4-5 inches off the water BTW.
    ________
    Tanks: 400 gal Reef, 180 gal FOWLR, 300 gal Sump, 40 gal Frag Tray plumbed as one system - 900 gal total water volume.
    DIY Calcium Reactor, Nielson Reactor and Skimmer

  3. #13
    Senior Member Zookeeper's Avatar
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    Interesting Stig, as I presumably already have those endcaps? See pic above.

  4. #14
    Senior Member mpleleaf's Avatar
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    If you want to lighten the weight of your canopy though why don't you strip the fixtures , mount the sockets to your canopy, remote locate your ballasts under your stand or any other location and you can keep the glass and add two 120v computer fans (1 inward &1 outward ) to draw air and heat away. I find a good percentage of the heat comes fom the bulb so this should make the ballast last longer !

  5. #15
    Senior Member Zookeeper's Avatar
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    mpleleaf:

    I absolutely plan on stripping the fixtures and having the balasts remote. Having the balasts in the canopy right now makes it weigh a ton.

    With regards to the 120V fans, and heat, would I be likely to have more heat in my canopy once I make the switch? Again, keep in mind that the balasts are currently in the canopy (they won't be once I switch to VHO), so I would lose the heat from the balasts, but I also would imagine that the heat from the bulbs would be greater.

    Another thing: based on another thread about glass tops, air exchange, and heat, I've pretty much decided to get rid of the glass panels, and replace it with egg crate.

  6. #16
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    Yes you do already have them, It will also allow you to get more bulbs and longer bulbs into your canopy as the profile on the cheap endcaps are much smaller.
    That was my problem, my hood was 36.5 inches long and I needed to get a 36 inch bulb into it. With the HD endcaps I even had some room to spare.
    ________
    Tanks: 400 gal Reef, 180 gal FOWLR, 300 gal Sump, 40 gal Frag Tray plumbed as one system - 900 gal total water volume.
    DIY Calcium Reactor, Nielson Reactor and Skimmer

  7. #17
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    Having the ballasts mounted remotely definately helps.

    As for the fans... I'm not sure that 1 pointing in and 1 out is the best way to go. There has been a lot of discussion about this on other boards. Many people say that by having both fans point inside the canopy, you'll have more air circulation, and more importantly create a positive pressure environment, thereby forcing hot air out the top vent (which you have). In the end, you'll have to try which combo works best for you.

    Good idea about ditching the glass tops....
    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

  8. #18
    Senior Member ReefVan's Avatar
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    It's not junk, it's un-assembled DIY!

  9. #19
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    The DIY king has spoken....

    We may all bow now.

    :massa:
    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

  10. #20
    ijo
    ijo is offline
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    exclusive to AC? whoo hooo :thumb:

    I think I'm going to use this DIY... nice job ReefVan.. question.. where did you get the smoked plastic shield?

    IJO

    P.S mind if I move this to the DIY section?

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