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  1. #1
    Senior Member Zookeeper's Avatar
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    Upgrading my lights

    I've been thinking alot about upgrading my current lighting.

    Currently, I have 3 normal output, shoplight fixtures, with a total of 6, 30W bulbs. This gives my 180W of light total.

    I'm thinking about going to VHO, and from what I can gather, I'd need a Workhorse 7 ballast which would run 2 110W bulbs for a total 220W. One clear advantage this would have, is that it would make my hood substantially lighter (it currently takes two people to lift it off the tank)

    Since I would have to dismantle my hood anyway, should I double this, and get 440W? Would doing this have a shocking impact on all of my corals which have been quite happy under 180W?

    Are there any pieces/parts of the existing shop lights that I can salvage, such as the casings and the end caps (ie: could I just replace the bulbs and ballasts?

    And what about the heat? When I built the hood a year ago, I left two inches of space between the top of the fixtures and the underside of the hood for ventalation, and installed a 120 volt computer fan (six inches square) to draw air out of the hood.

  2. #2
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    Hmm...

    Since I would have to dismantle my hood anyway, should I double this, and get 440W? Would doing this have a shocking impact on all of my corals which have been quite happy under 180W?
    That's the way I'd go... This would allow you to keep a wider range of livestock.

    But since there's a dramatic change in lighting, I would run 2 of the 110's fulltime (as normal), and acclimate the corals to the other 2 110's slowly over the course of several weeks by adding 1 hour to the photoperiod of the lights per week until you reach your normal photoperiod.

    Are there any pieces/parts of the existing shop lights that I can salvage, such as the casings and the end caps (ie: could I just replace the bulbs and ballasts?
    You should be able to keep your endcaps, provided they're in good condition. After all, in the end, they're not all that expensive. As for casings, I'm not quite sure what you're talking about there.

    And what about the heat? When I built the hood a year ago, I left two inches of space between the top of the fixtures and the underside of the hood for ventalation, and installed a 120 volt computer fan (six inches square) to draw air out of the hood.
    I personally think it would be adequate. You'll only know after installing it, as your experience may vary to others.

    Hope that helps..
    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

  3. #3
    Senior Member Zookeeper's Avatar
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    Tang Man:

    By casings I mean the end caps and balast are already mounted in a whole metal fixture. I'd like to just remove the balast and change the bulbs.

    If someone can tell me how to embed a picture into a post, I'll post a pciture.

  4. #4
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    The link you gave me didn't work...

    Do you have a strip light, like this?:



    Do you have that mounted in a canopy?
    I'm trying to picture your setup...
    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

  5. #5
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    bristle

    your talking about the white shoplight frame that everything sits in as well as the ballast. I assume your also using the standard endcaps that come with that fixture no? I used that before and it worked but, With VHO'S they have the built in reflectors and I would use sealed end caps as salt creep can and has caused fires! with those regular type open endcaps.
    ICACAP sells them and I thing IVAN has a bunch. I have a few extra but I will probaly need them with my future tank.

  6. #6
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    Talking

    jesus Vince your fast? Thats what I was saying but you even got pictures!!!!!

  7. #7
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    heheh...
    I'm quick, huh?

    I agree with what you said John. That's why I wanted to see what he had in terms of lighting fixture....

    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

  8. #8
    Senior Member Zookeeper's Avatar
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    Yes, the picture describes exaclty what I have. How did you embed the picture like that?

    "With VHO'S they have the built in reflectors and I would use sealed end caps as salt creep can and has caused fires! with those regular type open endcaps."

    Yes, yes, this is the kind of info I'm looking for. Unfortunatley, I was hoping to be able to salvage the endcaps. This project is starting to push $500.00. Of note though, I have sliding glass panels between on top of the tank (above the water, but below the lighting), so there isn't much salt creep on the lights or fixtures.

  9. #9
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    Yes, the picture describes exaclty what I have. How did you embed the picture like that?
    I right clicked the picture and viewed the picture's link properties. Then here I clicked the IMG button and pasted the link to the picture... works great. Pictures are worth a 1000 words.

    Yes, yes, this is the kind of info I'm looking for. Unfortunatley, I was hoping to be able to salvage the endcaps. This project is starting to push $500.00. Of note though, I have sliding glass panels between on top of the tank (above the water, but below the lighting), so there isn't much salt creep on the lights or fixtures.
    Well, you'll probably want to make some kind of canopy to enclose your lights. The waterproof endcaps aren't that expensive... You can even get some Cora-Life endcaps (what I'm using).. . They're not expensive at all.

    As for the sliding glass, you may wanna get rid of that in concern for heat issues.
    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

  10. #10
    ijo
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    Bristleworm... your looking at roughly 170+tax for each 2xVHO bulbs/ballast/end cap combo. Maybe you could do this little project in two steps?

    IJO

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