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  1. #121
    Senior Member Fisherman's Avatar
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    i agree.. i am a rush rush type of person.. and a reefing there is no such thing.. and if you do.. well you end up wanting to quit..

    my tank right now is 1 month and a week old and looks like crap lol.. brown string algae and bubbles all over my rocks.. i change the water direct flow.. every few days to see if it improves the situation aswell as i shortened my photo period..

    will see in a week or so if it gets better or worse..

    i will just ride it out.. and it will balance itself out..

  2. #122
    Senior Member tiffany's Avatar
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    It is a very good idea to try and get your hands on RO, filtered water with removers are ok for emergency temporary situations.
    It seems that the combination of water and new set up would be the leading factors so far for the algae.

    With regard to ich, be patient and don't add fish for 6 weeks, you will be rewarded!

    Without food for the fish the nutrient levels will drop and the algae will starve, keep syphoning. (I can hear an [h3]echo[/h3][h4]echo[/h4][h5]echo[/h5]....)

    Often with red/cyano algae the nitrate readings are 0ppm, this is because they consume them for food, so a low nitrate level is not uncommon with algae.
    "The significant problems we face cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them."
    - Albert Einstein (1879-1955)

  3. #123
    Senior Member Flame*Angel's Avatar
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    Reefmutt, OMG, I thought I've been through some problems, I'm truly humbled. That you stuck it out and worked to get your tank back is truly a testement to the dedication and patience involved with being successful in this hobby. Thanks for sharing that with us.

    I have four tanks now. Trust me, there's no avoiding the new tank algae blooms. They go on for the first three or four months regardless of what you do. Every reefkeeper just has to wait it out. Even once your tank is established if something happens to destabilize things along the way - as you've seen with the stories above - it can start the algae blooms over again. There are chemicals and equipment you can buy but really when it comes down to it your best bet is to just keep working towards stable water conditions and it will all work itself out in the end. Typically there is an order:

    diatom algae - brownish gold "dusty" stuff
    cyano - reddish kind of slimy
    brown cyano - more bubbly and stringy
    hair algae - not everyone gets this, only one of my tanks did

    My 300g is going through cyano now. Every morning when I wake up the sand is clean and pretty. By evening it's covered in cyano. This is pretty normal. You can siphon this stuff out to get past it a little faster.

    Hang in there. You've had some bad luck with fish but your tank doesn't sound that bad really. The algae will work itself out. The ich outbreak was unfortunate but now would be a really good time to just let the tank sit with no fish for 6 weeks because it'll get you past the algae blooms that much faster. The tank will be clear of ich too. You might want to consider your source for fish. Getting fish that are healthy to start with makes a HUGE difference. NEVER buy a fish that you haven't watched eat with your own eyes. And buy some of the same food, getting them eating early can really help.

    Here's a list of things to look for when buying a new fish:

    - laboured breathing - rapid gill movement, this can be hard to notice but if you are watching for it and if you look at your healthy fish you'll know it when you see it.

    - raised scales - scales should lie flat and smooth, raised scales can be a sign of a parasite

    - spots - big or small, regular or irregular, any colour - they are all a bad sign

    - colour loss - overall or in patches

    - listlessness - healthy fish are active and aware of their surroundings and of you

    - cloudy fins - fins should be clear, transparent fins are the easiest to spot this on but even coloured fins can be cloudy

    - appetite - this can be tough with a new fish as they often won't eat the first few days but any fish that has been eating and then stops is not well

    - cloudy eyes - one or both eyes, check them often, always a bad sign

    - fin damage - melting looking fins or split fins, any fin damage that doesn't heal quickly, healthy fish heal almost like magic, fins that stay damaged are a sign of trouble

    - any sores, bumps, lumps, pimples, scratches - watch like a hawk, they may be a sign of a parasite or just a wound that could get infected

    - mouth - it's not common but sometimes a fish can have it's jaw broken with capture, it can get stuck in a net. A fish that has it's mouth constantly open could have a damaged jaw or lockjaw, both a bad sign.

    - sunken stomache - this could be a sign of just being underfed or it could be worms or parasites

    - red splotches or streaks - this is often blood under the skin, it can be very subtle with fine lines at first and then progress to splotches at the base of scales

    - eratic swimming - if a fish can't seem to stay upright there may be a swim bladder problem, this sometimes can be corrected but often not

    - scratching - fish rubs against the decorations or substrate, it could be just an itch but usually is a sign of something more

    - flashing - fish darts suddenly and eratically or seems to shake it's head like it's trying to shake something loose

    - watch for the poo - seriously, long stringy poo that hangs on is a sign that a fish is eating too much protein and may need a more varied diet, or it could be something more serious. Healthy fish poo is brownish and falls apart easily or else is soft and clumpy. White poo can be a sign of tainted food.

    - grossly enlarged gut - rare but also something to watch for, can indicate serious trouble.
    Susan

  4. #124
    Senior Member thien's Avatar
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    good thread, good stories. Thankfully, I don't have horror stories to share with you....yet. *knocking* on my wooden keyboard.

    This thread should be mandatory for new reefers....it's a reality check for anyone thinking it'll be easy/
    Good info Flame. I will print this up. If anyone sees some guy staring at a fish tank with a paper in his hand, checking off a list...that'll be me.
    thanks.
    thien

  5. #125
    Senior Member pwall's Avatar
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    Excellent post Flame-Angel.
    I've saved a copy for future reference.
    Regards,
    Patrick.
    Ottawa (Orleans), Ontario
    Yahoo IM: pwallnfld

  6. #126
    Senior Member
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    Originally posted by thien
    *knocking* on my wooden keyboard.
    Wooden?!! REALLY??!!!! WOW!! time to upgrade to the marvelous day & age of "plastics"!!!!

  7. #127
    Senior Member volitan's Avatar
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    no those are the new keyboards from pier imports...havent see them Greg?DO you have to mohagany or the pine one thien?
    Derik...

  8. #128
    Senior Member
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    Nope, haven't been to a Pier 1 in a couple months.., you're joking or they actually have them?
    I remember seeing ads in the early 80's for wooden "designer" computers, that's why I said it's time to upgrade.

    By the way, what's a Pier 1 doing up in the wild with the wolves and you?!!!

  9. #129
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    Matt, your tank is stunning and Flame Angel that is the best guide i have ever seen.

    Carzy, I have also been in your situation and i was soooo stressed i wanted to quit.

    It all started with my 802 power heads that come with no protection just a small cone. I had 3 fish at first 2 clowns and 1 yellow tang. One day i came home and the 1 of the clowns was gone. I looked everywhere for 2 days. I finally found him in one of my power heads. 1 month later I got 4 chromis,1 blennyand 1 hippo tang and again 1 chromis got sucked in. I then modified my power head with eggcrate and somehow by blenny also got killed. 2 weeks later i decided to modify my rock work because i had a huge BTA that was in the rear of my tank . So i moved the rock towards the front so i could see it. I then went to sleep and the next morning i received a beautifull Powder Blue and another clown but before i put them in i couldn't find my bta and it was dark in the room. I looked everywhere and was thinking that maybe it moved back to the rear and put the powder blue in the tank. When the lights came on i could see glowing parts of the BTA all over the tank and part of it's body was still stuck in the power head. I was unable to remove the debree and had to leave it in. The powder blue got ick, the hippo got ick and the yellow tang got black ick. The powder blue died 7 days later. I had to go to California for 10 days and my mom took care of the tank and overfead it and never cleaned the glass. I came back to a horrifying tank. Massive diatoms, algea and a bit of cyano all over the glass and sand. I could hardly see through the glass. My nitrates were 100+ and i lost it and got stressed beyond belief and almost sold everything. I had to do 30g water changes for 2 weeks every 2 days. I also had a beautifull brain coral that didn't make it after the water changes and my 2 clowns also had ick. Everything went well afterwards and i didn't add a single thing in my tank other than 2 cleaner shrimps and 1 cleaner wrasse. I haven't seen ick for about 3-4 months and everything looks good. The only minor thing that happened 1 month ago was that i got diatoms and cyano all over my sand but somehow my hermits just decided to start working and devoured the sand.

    Nothing is easy in life, you need patience to get great results and the satisfaction of comming home to a stunning tank like Matt's is priceless.
    "The significant problems we face cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them."
    - Albert Einstein (1879-1955)

  10. #130
    Senior Member pwall's Avatar
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    Ouch....I've lost a Royal Gramma, Yellow Tang and several chromis fish over the past year. That's nothing compared to you Mike.
    The fact that you stuck with it most likely means that you're in it for the long haul.
    Regards,
    Patrick.
    Ottawa (Orleans), Ontario
    Yahoo IM: pwallnfld

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