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  1. #1
    Moderator Krugar's Avatar
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    Yet another plan

    Okay here's the 3rd draft of the plumbing for my 90G



    I'm still learning to use visio so there's some quirks in the daigram I haven't been able to figure out.

    The 90* turn in the drain bends "in" to go under the sump, and then there's a run for the ball valve a "T" to come out for the 'fuge and the 1.5" will continue down into the sump. This won't be as straight as it looks.

    Should the 'fuge line with the gate valve be reduced? What size should it be reduced to?

    The float switch positions are complete guesses, but what I'd like to happen is the Auto top off runs when it's swtiches are triggered.

    Should the master low level float switch trigger, I want both the mag & the RO top off to shut off.

    The 3/4" return from the pump to an OM Squirt will hopefully be much straighter than it looks, I'm thinking this will be part of the support for the squirt.

    As it stands the tank has been drilled, the paint's off the back and the egg crate's on the bottom after a cleaning.

    Any comments or suggestions?

    Cheers!

  2. #2
    Moderator cres's Avatar
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    You might consider:

    (in reference to your drawing)
    1) put the skimmer on the right side of the baffles, the baffles should trap bubbles from the drain line AND the skimmer. This will also ensure that the skimmer is in a constant water level. Depending on the skimmer it can have an effect. You should also move the baffles left to accomodate this.

    2) I would put the check valve closer to the bottom. The greater pressure will help seal it better.

    3) I'm not sure about having 90s and valves on the drain line (any restriction on the drain can lead to wet floors). You might want to put a straight pipe to the sump on the drain and tee with a valve to feed the refugium.

    4) I'm not sure what you mean about using the return line to support the Squirt. You should probably have a hanger bracket for that.

    The rest looks okay to me. Nice drawing.
    Sarchasm: The gulf between the author of sarcastic wit and the person who doesn't get it.

  3. #3
    Moderator Krugar's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feedback cres.

    1. Sound's good I'll redraw with this.

    2. I'll do this too.

    3. The ball valve isn't meant to throttle the drain, but be an "on / off" if I ever need to work on the sump. The gate valve is after a "T" and is meant to throttle the line to the 'fuge only.

    Oh and I will hang a support for the squirt I was thinking the pipe might help it from moving left & right, but since I have a center brace... never mind lol

    Can I do that or am I asking for trouble?

    Cheers!
    There is nothing so permanent as a temporary measure.

  4. #4
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    Agree with cres' point #1. Another concern is that the middle section will be where evaporation will lower the water level which could affect skimmer performance.

    Most baffle systems over over-under-over rather than under-over-under. Any particular reason you have the under-over-under method?
    Nick

  5. #5
    Moderator Krugar's Avatar
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    Hey nickb,

    Mostly because I couldn't remeber how to do the baffel & I guessed while making the drawing. I was thinking bubbles rise so if the water enters the bottom...

    But if it's the other way around I'll do that

    Cheers!
    There is nothing so permanent as a temporary measure.

  6. #6
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    Some people use four baffles but the sumps I see on Melev's sump construction site have the O-U-O pattern. Partly, this will give higher water levels in the right and middle compartments. I thin it also helps functioning and flow.
    Nick

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