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  1. #1
    Senior Member colesy's Avatar
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    Water Evaporation

    I find anytime I tank the hood off my tank it has a lot of water in it. I am pretty sure its not from splash back, but from evaporation... I would assume there is no way to get around this, but wanted to ask if there was anything you can do so everytime I take the hood off, everything gets soaked.. lol

  2. #2
    Former Moderator swiseman's Avatar
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    Depending on the kind of lighting you have I suppose you could use a glass covering. Just leave a small section at the back uncovered for air flow. I don't use one becaues I have MH lighting and I found there was excessive heating of the air between the glass and the water causing a temperature increase in the tank.
    If my wife asks, it was only $20.

    Hardware:
    220 Gal Mostly SPS Reef, 66 gal sump with refuge, 33 gal refugium, Gen-X Mak-5 Return, 3 x IceCap 250 MH, 2 x 110 VHO, Deltec APF600 Skimmer and a Deltec AP-600, Geo 6-18 Calcium Reactor, 2 x Tunze Stream 6100, Profilux Plus II EX Controller.

  3. #3
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    You probably should look at the ventilation in the hood. If you have enough airflow you shouldn't get condensation. Do you have some fans blowing into the hood?

    I know the glass idea is tempting, but I don't reccomend it. It cuts down pretty dramatically on the light (especially when it gets dirty). Also gas exchange across the surface of the tank is very important. The tank needs to take in O2 and, perhaps even more importantly, release CO2. A glass cover can give you low Ph problems at night.

    Good fans blowing in the hood will dry things out and improve the overall health of the tank. It will increase evaporation a bit. But, unless you have a big tank in a little room that shouldn't be much of a problem.

    Just a different approach.

    Bill

  4. #4
    Senior Member colesy's Avatar
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    I dont have any fans. It's the hood that came with the tank. Its actually a fairly nice hood except there wouldnt be any room for mods like fans. I was thinking about adding a spacer between the tank and the hood, to lift the hood up, and I could add fans in the spacer. Does this sound like a decent idea?

  5. #5
    Senior Member mickyfin's Avatar
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    Yup I think that sounds like a good plan to cut down on the condensation.
    Don't Panic Feel free to visit my blog -> Internet Tough Guy.

  6. #6
    Senior Member colesy's Avatar
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    Are there any DIY for spacers? I have only seen for full hoods. I suppose it wouldnt be that difficult, but if there are plans on something that has been done before, I would rather do it right the first time.

  7. #7
    Former Moderator swiseman's Avatar
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    Post a pic of your canopy.
    If my wife asks, it was only $20.

    Hardware:
    220 Gal Mostly SPS Reef, 66 gal sump with refuge, 33 gal refugium, Gen-X Mak-5 Return, 3 x IceCap 250 MH, 2 x 110 VHO, Deltec APF600 Skimmer and a Deltec AP-600, Geo 6-18 Calcium Reactor, 2 x Tunze Stream 6100, Profilux Plus II EX Controller.

  8. #8
    Senior Member colesy's Avatar
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    Here are some quick pics, not great quality, sorry. Click on the pic to get a bigger version. Any ideas would be awesome!!! Thanks.


  9. #9
    Senior Member mickyfin's Avatar
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    Looks like those lights will need to be pretty close to the water to be effective for any time of invert life.

    For a FO tank I would bond some acrylic legs on it if possible and raise it a little to allow the evap to escape.

    Glass just doesn't work in saltwater I find. The salt creeps too much.
    Don't Panic Feel free to visit my blog -> Internet Tough Guy.

  10. #10
    Senior Member colesy's Avatar
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    OK. So I think what you are saying is if I ever want to get inverts I will need better lights. Especially if I want to raise them any higher then they already sit. What type of lights do you recommend?

    The lights I have are power-glo which is 18,000K for ligh spectrum, and the marine-glo is 0k from what I can tell on the package.. 30W each.

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