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  1. #11
    Senior Member tiffany's Avatar
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    Gosh I feel like a twit right now, I just remembered the things he told me like:
    Cracking glass
    Evaporation
    Dead corals from shock of MH's
    Hood not appropriate
    No where to put them
    Tanks too deep
    Tanks too shallow
    Not worth it on my tank ( he only likes star fire glass)
    etc...
    I think this new tank, will be his tank, in my apartment....
    Hmmmmm...
    I think I need to have a heart to heart with him....
    Its only 2.45am, should I wake him and ask him???
    Only joking.
    I think he's saving the best for the new tank, and he is making it out of star fire. Now that I like, and wont argue about.
    BTW, can you get pre-nups for marine tanks if you're not married???
    "The significant problems we face cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them."
    - Albert Einstein (1879-1955)

  2. #12
    Senior Member pwall's Avatar
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    Nov 2004
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    For my auto-top system, I use a 20gallon drum which will only drain out a maxium of 15-16 gallons. It's also a slow drip so it would take a day or two to completely drain.
    With my sump, I have approximatley 17 gallon head-room, so if something happens to my auto-top up system and it filled the sump, it couldn't overflow.
    I fill up the topup system every 2nd week, using filtered water.
    Regards,
    Patrick.
    Ottawa (Orleans), Ontario
    Yahoo IM: pwallnfld

  3. #13
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    Jun 2003
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    Volitan,
    There's a pic of the units with a full description in the classified's section. I don't have a pic of it installed though, all you'd see is a switch located in a sump anyways.

    I do build whereby both floatswitches have to be activated in order to supply power to the top-off pump. This is in case one floatswitch sticks (I've never seen this, nor have I ever cleaned mine) or if a snail takes a "nap" on one.

    One trick is having a bracket go over the edge of the tank to hold the floatswitch far enough from the tanks' wall so that a snail can't get to it...

    Anyhow... this thread is about center braces, not floatswitches.. LOL... If anyone would like more info, please PM me... Sorry for hicacking the thread Tiff.

    Tiff,
    Under normal circumstances, it is suggested to mount the MH 9-12" from the water's surface.
    At that distance, I don't see how the MH's could cause the brace to crack.
    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

  4. #14
    Senior Member volitan's Avatar
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    Well just one last thing on float switches..and then im done...I got and tsunami auto to off unit...i put it were my skimmer overflow hose goes to..in a 5 gallons water jug..so if ever the skimmer decides to freak out like it happened to me at 3h00am when i was out of town.....The skimmer will stop...thats what i use my auto to off for....but i like yours vince....Sh#t..i just spend 900$ on an aquacontroler and software and powerheads yesterday......And i thought there is nothing else i wanted....ehhehe now i want your auto top off....

    anyhow back to center braces.

    anyone seen a plastic center bace break or melt..my lights a 12 inches from the water
    Derik...

  5. #15
    Senior Member tiffany's Avatar
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    Hijack away, I don't mind.

    So we spoke, and he said because the center brace was only 5mm thick it would crack, and that he puts the lights closer than most.

    What do think of the logic???
    "The significant problems we face cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them."
    - Albert Einstein (1879-1955)

  6. #16
    Senior Member volitan's Avatar
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    only 5mm..i think its enough..why would he put his light closer..what is closer.....if its close i hope he has an acrylic sheild cause if water splashes on those halides when there hot.....powww!!!good bye light.....How high is he going to put it?How deap is the tank.....?
    Derik...

  7. #17
    Senior Member ALRHA's Avatar
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    mine are about 10" off the water (with a fan blowing over the water surface to keep things from getting to hot and fresh air for the tank). I have a glass brace as well. higher is better as the light will spread over more area and keeps from heating the water as much. for top-off i have about a 7 gallon bucket which would not overflow my sump or dilute my 200+gals of water. all you would need is a bucket and a float switch to automate it, not a big deal, you should look into it. the MH light can always be used on the new tank too.
    p.s. i like the new avatar.
    Albert
    My Photos

  8. #18
    Moderator cres's Avatar
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    Well, I don't think we should argue with your boyfried through you.

    Glass won't crack do to heat alone.

    But, in the end it comes down to your basic question.

    You want more light over your current tank. Your bf thinks MH will cause problems. While most of us here think that isn't an issue, he does and I question how much of a fight it is worth.

    Have you considered other options? VHO, T5, cf ?
    Sarchasm: The gulf between the author of sarcastic wit and the person who doesn't get it.

  9. #19
    Senior Member steve666's Avatar
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    The m/h light will not crack the glass (logic i cant see any logic) my m/h are 6" above the glass (3mm)
    We need more Indians!

  10. #20
    Senior Member tiffany's Avatar
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    Thanks guys.
    I think he wants to wait for the 5x2x2 and is coming up with all sorts of reasons not to improve the current one.
    I understand where he's coming from and am grateful for the confirmation that I'm correct. (But I'll keep it too myself......)
    The new tank will have 2 x 250's, that are sitting there waiting to be used. And a lonely 150.

    ALRHA thanks for the complement, and happy Hanukkah.
    "The significant problems we face cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them."
    - Albert Einstein (1879-1955)

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