Page 1 of 9 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 84
  1. #1
    Senior Member nallender's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    113

    Nick's First Tank (90 gallon)

    I bought what I was told was a 75g established aquarium. The previous owner had about 60lbs of live rock and about 1-2 inches of live sand for substrate. I measured the tank and realized it is a 90 gallon tank.

    The tank came with a Prism Protein Skimmer and a Marine Land Magnum H.O.T filter. It came with your everyday shop type T12 flourescent light ballast with a 10,000k and an actinic bulb, three heaters, and two power heads.

    The guy that owned it neglected the tank for quite some time and it basically ran at room temperature with no filtration for a while. Amazingly, a large maroon clownfish, yellow tailed damsel, serpent star, and green polyp mushroom survived as well as alot of nice coraline algea, worms, etc. There are some mini feather dusters growing on some of the live rock with orange "fans" sticking out of the small white tubes and some spaghetti worms.

    The inhabitants have been in a friend's 30g refugium since May with the live rocks to keep them "live". I have a Yellow Tail Damsel, Maroon Clownfish, Spotted Mandarin, Serpent Star, and 10 hermit crabs. The Damsel and the large female clown are going to be traded in or sold on the cheap soon. I think I have settled on a Kole Tang for sure and maybe a Blue Hippo Tang since they are different body shapes, etc.. They will likely be the last of my fish to add since they will likely be the most territorial/ aggressive.. I would like to stock a couple jawfish, gobies, blenny, royal gramma, 3 Chromis and a pair of Clowns. I would add the tangs last, likely as juveniles at the same time.

    Any thoughts on the mix of fishes in a 90 gallon? I am not sure what type of gobies but I do already have the spotted Mandarin who will be the first one in, once it is established with pods, etc.. the live rock I am using is older and established already.I will obviously take my time in adding these fish and do it properly. I just wanted to share what I was thinking of doing in the future.

    I have fixed up the stand that came with it, and I have set up NEW, very fine sand and some live rock in my 90g tank to start a cycle. I will introduce some live copepods into this environment after a few weeks and slowly get some of my clean up crew in there. A blue legged hermit crab has already made his way in on one of my rocks. I think he misses his friends tho..

    I have found a T5 lighting hood 48" long and holds 6 bulbs. I was going to get a 4 bulb set up but have decided on the 6 after receiving advice to do so. This fixture will be purchased in the next couple months.. I am going to just use the crappy light that came with it while I get started as I am not going to be putting in any corals for a bit.

    I have built my own sump out of a 40g tank and I am running a Phosban reactor with carbon right now to take anything out of the tap water. I will be using RO/DI water from now on out. I will buy it from a local store for now and eventually get my own unit installed at home. I have an Eshopp continuous syphon overflow and two Hydor Koralia 3 power heads. I also purchased a Coralvue digital power bar with a built in timer for the lights. I have a brand new Octopus Recirculating Protein Skimmer DNW-110.

    Should I leave the skimmer off during the cycling phase?

    Any input or criticism is welcome!

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    612
    Put that skimmer to work! It will help get your cycling process moving faster by taking care of the die off. And even if you were using RO/DI water, the phosban is a very good idea to keep your algae cycles to a minimum in the beginning. Do you have all necessary testing kits? Use good quality ones.
    120g AGA~145 lbs Haitian LR~DA Reef Keeper 2 Controller~Dual 14k 250 DE MH's~Dual Overflows~Dual 250w Jager Heaters~Dual 96W Actinics~30g Sump/Refugium~Mag 12 Return~140 lbs Reefgrade Caribsea Aragonite~BubbleKing 180 Skimmer~Phosban Reactor~GEO Kalk Reactor~Powerheads:MP40w/Seio 820/modified Powersweep 270 with Hydor rotating deflector~Digital lighting timer for moon/fuge lighting~7 stage RODI filtration~Quarantine: modified 12.5g Marineland Eclipse

  3. #3
    Senior Member nallender's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    113
    What brand test kits are known to be good? Which ones are crap? I was going to get the API Reef master test kit because it was on sale at Petsmart..

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    210
    Quote Originally Posted by nallender View Post
    What brand test kits are known to be good? Which ones are crap? I was going to get the API Reef master test kit because it was on sale at Petsmart..
    API is cheap. You get what you pay for.

    Salifert, Elos, LaMotte are known to be the best.
    29g Biocube, 2x90w Aqua Illumination LED light modules, Vortech MP20, Sapphire BC29 skimmer, GHL Profilux Plus II with 3pump doser.

  5. #5
    Senior Member nallender's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    113
    I bought the API master kit mainly to test during the cycyle. I will buy a second kit.. either ELOS or Salifert.. on the fence still.. for the future.. once I start stocking more then a few fish..

    My Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate all read 0. It's been approx 3 weeks since I have had the tank running. My PH was 8.0.

    Because there are lot's of worms and life on the live rock I have been feeding the tank phyto every couple of days from Kent Marine. I figured it would help create ammonia for the cycle and some food for the worms. Any thoughts on this? Does anyone think the worms would be fine without the phyto.. I'm not putting much in.. just a drop every couple days of Chromamax

  6. #6
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    2,819
    while i agree API aren't the greatest, i find they work well enough to cycle a tank or test for the presence of..... but aren't very accurate for the actual amount. you can definitely wait to buy the other test kits until you need them, then just buy quality ones for the important ones.

    how are you testing S.G. and pH??

    did you see any spike in ammonia or nitrite??


    the phyto isn't necessary to cycle the tank but it may help boost your pod population prior to the addition of your mandarin. do you see lots of them in the refugium?
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

  7. #7
    Senior Member nallender's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    113
    The API kit includes a PH test.. I did not notice a large spike in ammonia or Nitrite.. I noticed a small increase and then it disappeared.. the live rock I had was in another tank before going directly into my tank.. don't know how much of an effect the rock would have

    Forgive my newbiness... but what does S.G. stand for.. if it's specific gravity I have a coralife deep six hydrometer..

    As far as the pods go I have not put them in my main tank yet and I do not have a refugium set up yet. The tank that the mandarin is currently in has lot's of pods. I can see all kinds of pods in the coral rubble. He has been in there for about 6 months and has grown and fattened since I got him. I will be infusing my D.T. with Tigger pods and Reef Pods. I will save some of each to start a separate culture in a 20 gallon tank.

    What type of filtration is recommended for a separate fuge? Skimmer? HOB filter of some kind? Just curious since there will not be fish, etc..

  8. #8
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    2,819
    yes S.G. is specific gravity and that would be the first thing i would replace.

    does your friend with a tank have a hydrometer or refractometer??

    if he has a refractometer take your hydrometer over to his house and compare, hydrometers are horribly in accurate. a good refractometer isn't very expensive and can be calibrated, so they last for a very long time. i have seen hydrometers of by over 4 point ( so if you think you have 1.026 it can be 1.022 - 1.030 or greater ) and this just wont due for corals and inverts.


    for filtration all you need is some good LR, a protein skimmer and a refugium with some macro algae ( preferably chaeto ). HOB filters are to be avoided as the tend to turn into nitrate factories unless you are meticulous at keeping them clean.

    i just re-read your question and nothing separate is need for the refugium, it is just part of the system.
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

  9. #9
    Senior Member nallender's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    113
    he uses the same type of test as me.. I'll have to look into getting better methods of testing. I'll probably go with Elos or Salifert for calcium, iodide, etc.. For ammonia, nitrite and nitrate I'll likely use API on a regular basis and perhaps use a more expensive kits like the two mentioned to double check on a less frequent basis.

    Any recommendations on a good Refractometer?

  10. #10
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    2,819
    you're in Niagara so i'll post some from mail order...... ( not sure of the shops down your way )

    i have this one, when i went to re-calibrate it was still dead on.

    Aquakit.ca ( looks like its on sale too )

    MOPS.ca

    i wouldn't use pure water to calibrate, they make a solution that is close to SW levels.
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

Page 1 of 9 123 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. 75 gallon SPS tank
    By reefsurfer in forum Member Tanks
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 02-24-2009, 03:20 PM
  2. new 40 gallon tank!!
    By volitan in forum Off Topic
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 11-28-2004, 03:19 AM
  3. My other Tank 90 gallon
    By dermp in forum Reef Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-06-2004, 10:03 PM
  4. 44 gallon corner tank
    By volitan in forum AC Classifieds
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 04-10-2004, 04:10 AM
  5. F.S 150 Gallon tank
    By ijo in forum AC Classifieds
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 02-03-2004, 02:53 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •