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  1. #1
    Senior Member SnelgroveReefer's Avatar
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    Need pump advice

    I have made a closed loop system (Calfo design) for my 90g in-wall but not installed it all yet. I did not drill the tank for the pump intake and now it is too late as the tank is running and established (1 year) so i will need to draw water from the top of the tank. I have a Sequence Reef-flo Dart (3600gph) on order that should arrive later this week. Should I mount the pump above the tank so that the water going to the closed loop has zero head height or is it better to mount the pump below the 1.5" intake strainer to create a syphon and have about a 2' head height. I am also not sure if that pump can suck the water out of the tank without the syphon action. Any advice would be appreciated.
    Mark
    90g Display, 30gal sump w/ refugium, MAS CR418 calcium reactor w/ Mag5 and Blueline CO2, Vertex IN-180 protein skimmer w/ Mag5, Mag9.5 return, 150 Phosban Reactor w/ MJ 1200, 1 Ebo 200w heater, 90lbs. LR, 80lbs. Carib-Sea aragonite, Cooltouch MH lights -2 x 400watt (20K & 14K) PFO hoods & Coralife 65w PC in custom hood with fan, Coralife 3-3/4watt mini moonlights, 8 jet Closed Loop System w/Reef-flo Dart, Aqua-Safe RO/DI, JBJ Auto Top Off unit w/Mag 5 return, 12g Nano cube, 10g quarentine.

  2. #2
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    You will need to mount the pump below the water line, otherwise there will be no way to prime the pump. It will always be running dry. It cannot be the highest point in the closed loop. Also, pumps are much better at pushing water than pulling water. So you don't want the pump to work to bring the water in. There is no "head" involved with a closed loop. Only friction losses from running through the pipes, elbows, etc. So mounting the pump lower does not create any extra head pressure.

    Do you only have one 1.5" strainer? If so, would it be very difficult to add another? 3600pgh through a 1.5" strainer is quite a bit.

    How are you going to remove the air from the closed loop plumbing when you install the pump? How are you going to prime it?

  3. #3
    Senior Member SnelgroveReefer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob M
    Do you only have one 1.5" strainer? If so, would it be very difficult to add another? 3600pgh through a 1.5" strainer is quite a bit.

    How are you going to remove the air from the closed loop plumbing when you install the pump? How are you going to prime it?
    I have not done anything with the intake set up yet so I could add a second strainer. What would I do, put on two strainers and "T" them into the 1.5" pump intake?

    As for primming the pump, I plan to have an open "T" upsidedown that will be capped after the pump has been primed. I think this should work, it seemed to when I tested the system with a Mag 5, but with eight exit points and only 500gph (500 / 8 = 62.5gph each), it was only a trickle.

    I do not know anything about air bubbles or what you mean, any suggestions?

    Mark
    90g Display, 30gal sump w/ refugium, MAS CR418 calcium reactor w/ Mag5 and Blueline CO2, Vertex IN-180 protein skimmer w/ Mag5, Mag9.5 return, 150 Phosban Reactor w/ MJ 1200, 1 Ebo 200w heater, 90lbs. LR, 80lbs. Carib-Sea aragonite, Cooltouch MH lights -2 x 400watt (20K & 14K) PFO hoods & Coralife 65w PC in custom hood with fan, Coralife 3-3/4watt mini moonlights, 8 jet Closed Loop System w/Reef-flo Dart, Aqua-Safe RO/DI, JBJ Auto Top Off unit w/Mag 5 return, 12g Nano cube, 10g quarentine.

  4. #4
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    Upside down T should work. THis is what I meant...replacing the air with water to prime the pump. I have a canister filter that is primed the same way.

    Doesn't a dart have a 2 inch intake? See here:

    http://aquariacanada.com/osCommerce/...roducts_id=569

    Perhaps you should run a 2 inch intake to the dart? You could put a "T" on the intake in the tank and a 1.5" strainer or 2" strainer on either side. There should be very little friction loss from this setup.

    I'd love to see pictures when you have this setup.

  5. #5
    Senior Member SnelgroveReefer's Avatar
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    The specs on the Dart are confusing because all of the online shops I have checked AC & ... show what you have posted 2" input, but the manufacturers site, http://www.mdminc.com/Dart.htm , shows it as 1.5". So I am just waiting until it shows up at my door to construct the plumbing.

    Also, you mentioned air bubbles in your other reply, did the upsidedown "T" look after that as well as the Primming issue?
    Thanks for the help, Mark.
    90g Display, 30gal sump w/ refugium, MAS CR418 calcium reactor w/ Mag5 and Blueline CO2, Vertex IN-180 protein skimmer w/ Mag5, Mag9.5 return, 150 Phosban Reactor w/ MJ 1200, 1 Ebo 200w heater, 90lbs. LR, 80lbs. Carib-Sea aragonite, Cooltouch MH lights -2 x 400watt (20K & 14K) PFO hoods & Coralife 65w PC in custom hood with fan, Coralife 3-3/4watt mini moonlights, 8 jet Closed Loop System w/Reef-flo Dart, Aqua-Safe RO/DI, JBJ Auto Top Off unit w/Mag 5 return, 12g Nano cube, 10g quarentine.

  6. #6
    liv
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    Former Moderator liv's Avatar
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    the dart has a 2" in and 1-1/2" out.

  7. #7
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    I didn't mean air bubbles. I just wanted to know how you were going to get the closed loop primed with water...in other words, displace the air with water. You are using the capped "T" for this. It should work great.

    Unless you have a leak, you won't have any air bubbles.

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