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  1. #1
    GSM
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    A real puzzle - Zoo's

    Hi Guys,

    I have a real puzzle on my hands. My Zoo's & polyps won't open fully anymore - here's the background.

    75g main tank with 33g sump with about 200lbs or live rock. Moved it all into rubermaids and small tanks 8 weeks ago when re-did the floors (The tank had been up and running for about 6months) Set it all back up with 2 weeks later and all has been running for 6 weeks now. The Zoo's and Button Polyps will only partially open, if at all.

    Water params seem normal (except ca is low). Temp -> 78-80F. Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Phosphate - all 0 (below detection on my kits anyhow). Alk is at 10.5. pH at 8. Calcium is around 260 (just tested it for the first time yesterday as I'm not one to test unless I start running into problems)-> bringing this up with small daily biocalcium additions and have just stated

    I'm running 4 T5HO actinics from 9-9 and two 14K Ushio 250W MH from 1-8. There are about 15 patches of zoo's throughout the rock - some shaded from the MH some directly exposed. The zoo's receded considerably over the weeks but this has recently slowed. The Button polyp colony remained the same size but never opened other than to reveal only the mouth.

    All fish and inverts fine (2 false percs, 1 yellow tang, and a few chromis).

    Other corals doing well - frogspawn, candcane, open brain, maze brain, digitata and acros. Xenia still growing like a weed.

    I plan to keep doing some water changes (have just switched to Reef Crystals).

    I don't suspect any bugs as the colonies are spread across the tank. I just added a small 10 polyp colony (These are the pink palys from you redbelly) and it too closed right up and has yet to open after 3 days.

    Any thoughts - Zoo's are some of my favoite corals.

    Thanks,

    Greg

  2. #2
    Senior Member solowma's Avatar
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    I found the same problem with my zoo too at that low of calcium. After I got it back up they were fine.
    150 (reef) 56 (FOWLR)
    75 gal sump 25 gal refuge
    300lbs CaribSea Aragonite Reef Sand
    280 lbs of Assorted rock
    Tunze 9010 skimmer, Current USA 48" Fixture
    1 cleaner shrimp, pistol shrimp
    50 blue legged hermit, 15 nausaurus/astrea snails
    Yellow tang, 2 clowns, 1 blue chromis, 1 yellow watchman 1 corral beauty
    Colt coral, Frogspawn, Bubble, Donut coral, Mushrooms,Starburst green, Green and orange polyps an Umbrella coral, Purple Long Tentacle Anemone.

  3. #3
    Member reefgeek110's Avatar
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    GSM;
    I had the same problem for a full year and a half, zoos just wouldn't open or grow, they just weren't opening. All my parameters were dead on in my first tank too. Now after getting my 110 system running they are opening up and doing great! The other day whilst watching the tank I noticed a really fast snail about the size of a dime dashing around my frogspawn. Surprisingly I caught it and am about 95% sure it was a true sundial snail (aka zoo eater). I'd be on the lookout for a sundial. I never knew I had one untill a year and a half of scatching my head had passed.
    That's it for now, keep reef'n

    My Tank

  4. #4
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    Your PH is low that may be the culprit try buffering and see if that works.

  5. #5
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    i would take a real good look for intruders like snails ( as mentioned above )and nudibranches. several of theses species are known to eat zoa's and are able to take on the color of what they eat, making them hard to spot.

    another param required for zoa's is I, has it been a while between water changes?? i don't test for I but by keeping a good WC schedule this and other trace elements should be easily maintained.

    i just noticed the original post date, hopefully everything is working out, any update?
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


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  6. #6
    GSM
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    Quote Originally Posted by a4twenty View Post
    i would take a real good look for intruders like snails ( as mentioned above )and nudibranches. several of theses species are known to eat zoa's and are able to take on the color of what they eat, making them hard to spot.

    another param required for zoa's is I, has it been a while between water changes?? i don't test for I but by keeping a good WC schedule this and other trace elements should be easily maintained.

    i just noticed the original post date, hopefully everything is working out, any update?

    Thanks for the advice everyone - I'll keep looking for intruders.

    Here are the params as of yesterday:

    Amm, Nitrate, Nitrite - 0
    Phosphate -off low end scale on test kit (I have a phosban reactor so this should be quite low)
    pH - 7.8 to 8.0 night/day
    temp - 78-80F
    Ca+ - 375ppm
    Alk - 10

    Good flow in the tank (moved the frogspawn to a lower flow area and it has opened a little more - although still now fully extended)

    Unfortunately bleached my acro's - moved the ca+ too quickly - damn. Tough lesson to learn. I've been doing about 10% change twice a week for the last 2 weeks to keep the die-off from killing the other corals. LPS have been unaffected.

    I setup a 20g in the basement with a couple of zoo frags to try to rule out any snails etc. Still not open in the basement. Bought one of the mj mods the other day for this tank - it fell in the sandbed and burried everything - time to dig out the frags.....

    None of the zoo's are open yet.

    I'm going to let the tanks settle for a couple of weeks and see what develops.

    Cheers,

    Greg

  7. #7
    GSM
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    Hi Everyone - an encouraging update!

    After a few weeks of letting the tank settle, the zoo's and polyps are almost fully open.

    I first stablized my params - although I pushed the ca+ a little fast a bleached some of my SPS (hard way to learn the virtue of patience).

    Nothing changed for two weeks other than the die-off from the SPS causing a small bloom.

    I checked the tank for 'pests' - no snails or nudi's apparent. Polyps still wouldn't open after two weeks and most LPS was looking stressed (likely due to moving params too quickly)

    I checked my maintenance logs and came across what I believe to have been the reason all along - IT HAD BEEN 12 MONTHS SINCE I CHANGED MY RO/DI FILTERS!. TDS was still reading zero but something must have been getting through that was irritating the corals.

    I changed the cartridges and did a partial water change - three weeks later my zoo & polyps are all open and my LPS has never looked better.

    Thanks for all the help everyone - remember to change your cartridges!

    Cheers,

    Greg

    ps: Some of the bleached SPS has actually sprouted new polyps - never thought coral, once bleached (completely white) could recover.

  8. #8
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    great news !!!! any chance of a few pics ?


    i do my cartridges on july 1 and jan 1, along with oiling my pump :029: .... some little giant pumps need oiling.
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

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