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  1. #1
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    RO filter questions (aqua-safe)

    What is the typical filter lineup for this unit? The 3 canisters below the ro membrane unit? My unit has been sitting for along time (with water inside) and no doubt the sediment carbon filters are slimy and needing to be changed. Hoping to flush the membrane and continue to use it but not sure. Guess i'll put new seds and carbon block etc and flush and test with tds meter to see if ro membrane is shot. Is the di cartridge necessary or is plain ro not good enough for marine tank.

    thanks

  2. #2
    liv
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    I can't remember too well.. but i'd go ( from left to right ) 5micron, 1micron, GAC or CCB ( carbon ) then RO then DI.

    hope this helps.

    moving.. so temporarily out of SW :b8:
    planning next tank, possibly 60x30x20 on 2x plasma.
    updated: 2011/05/30

  3. #3
    ijo
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    I would definately change the filters if they havent been used in a while... the aquasafe filters are 5 micron, GAC, CCB, RO, DI. The DI is what will remove the last %5 of TDS... Its worth the investment.

    I still have some left over from the retail days... might even have some color changing DI beads and addon container.

    IJO

  4. #4
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    Smile

    IMO i'd definatly change all the filters. you really should go to this site and read up on RO/DI as they make the best filters. there not all created equal.
    we have chloramines in our water which GAC [carbon block] works so so but theres a better carbon for that. I thinks its called chloramine buster??
    DI is VERY important. the horizontal one you have is really not good at all and doesn't last long. you can add a vertical clear canister with a DI that tells you when its exhausted.

    SPECTRAPURE.COM is the site

  5. #5
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    thanks folks. I will change out all 3 of my filters. As for the DI it makes me wonder as i have been buying RO water from a local shop that just deals in RO. They do not use DI and i've seen with my own eyes 0.00 on TDS meter so spending the extra cash on the DI cartridge is probably not needed. I think i'll try pure RO without DI and see how the results are. After all, my tapwater is reading around 068 on TDS. Ivan, can you check what filters you still have left kicking around. John, anywhere around here selling "spectrapure" filters? Looking for decent price for the 3 lower filters locally.

    I also use 2 individual canister filters from homedepot "before" my RO unit. They may not do all that much but even a little is better.

    If my ro unit originally came with 100gpd membrane, is there any issues replacing it when time comes with a 75gpd? Lower daily output no doubt but any other issues? size compatible etc



    cheers and tanks!

  6. #6
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    honestly DI is a MUST if you want to be sure your water is perfect now, and in the future. tehres many aspect of RO/DI that I won't bother typing because its been done to death but because yous ee a tank that looks good now with just RO doesn't meen it will stay that way.
    also, city crews do freaquent flushings and boost CHLORAMINES spring and fall
    many many other reasons.
    a DI will also catch the ammonia and other stuff like silicates that your membrane/prefilters let thru. a DI will also tell you when its getting exhausted
    were as a carbon block will not.
    a 0 TDS reading does not neccesarily mean nothing is getting thru therefore its just used as a basic guidline.
    you can change to a 75gpd membrane very easily and as a matter of fact SPECTRAPURE makes one of the BEST DOWTEC membranes on the market
    and the 75gpd has the best rejection rate.
    you see, not all RO/DI systems are equal. this is one area no one should skimp on for a reef tank. if your going fish only its not all that important.
    in closing, the DI is like the last line of defence and tells you by color changing when its time to change.
    a pressure gage is also important after your prefilters to tell you when there shot. if you just guess then you don't know how much bad stuff passed into your tank.
    phosphates
    silicates
    ammonia
    etc...

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