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Thread: zoa problem

  1. #1
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    Question zoa problem

    i have three separate colonies of zoas that don't open up anymore.. i'm mystified as of why. I had sundial snails on onen of the colonies and they have been removed but nothing still opens... Calc 400, alk 10dkh, sg 1.026... would a dip of TMPCC help? are there any stores that sell this in Ottawa?

  2. #2
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    have you looked for zoanthid eating nudi's, there are a few pics there of the eggs too. they will take on the colour of their food source so they blend in well.

    double checked for any more sundials?

    tested the rest of your params?

    made any changes recently that would have effected your parameter stability?


    a dip can be useful as long as the problem is a predator and is even more useful as a preventive measure when adding new zoas. to the system. a FWD dip or iodine ( i use lugols solution but i think the TM is Iodine too ) dip with temp and pH balanced RODI is usually suggested.


    you will want to be sure of what you are trying to treat for before doing anything though.

    can you post a close up pic?
    `

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  3. #3
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    Yeah i've been checking for sundials day and night for the past few days but haven't seen anything so far. I'll take a look at that link for the nudi's... Yep, the rest of the parameters are all in check and everything else in the tank is doing well. Haven't added anything to the tank in at least a few months so can't be that...

    Here are soe pics, although kind of blurry and such... need a new camera...






  4. #4
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    they all appear to be closed...


    what other corals do you have? any softies? are they nearby?

    do you run carbon?

    what is your water change schedule?

    do you have GFIC's, a ground probe? any chance of leaky voltage?
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

  5. #5
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    Yes they are closed which is my problem... um... yeah i have one softy, a toadstool leather thats not really near any of them and its been in there forever. I have a 65g tank and do a 5g water change every week pretty much religiously (this weekend i'm going to do 10 though i think). I run carbon and gfo and change it about every 2 weeks i'd say and just did it today. I was also thinking it could be allelopathy which is why i'm increasing water change and will change carbon/gfo more often.

    I have no idea what GFIC's is so can't say... would leaky voltage not affect other corals? Everything else in the tank is doing great...

    Thanks for the ideas on what to look for though...

  6. #6
    GSM
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    Quote Originally Posted by jxb647 View Post
    Yes they are closed which is my problem... um... yeah i have one softy, a toadstool leather thats not really near any of them and its been in there forever. I have a 65g tank and do a 5g water change every week pretty much religiously (this weekend i'm going to do 10 though i think). I run carbon and gfo and change it about every 2 weeks i'd say and just did it today. I was also thinking it could be allelopathy which is why i'm increasing water change and will change carbon/gfo more often.

    I have no idea what GFIC's is so can't say... would leaky voltage not affect other corals? Everything else in the tank is doing great...

    Thanks for the ideas on what to look for though...
    I had something similar happen back in September last year. The Zoa's simply wouldn't open - all param were good - no other corals were affected. Stayed this way for about 8 weeks as they slowly died back.

    After trying everything under the sun, someone suggested I change my RODI cartridges. Changed all cartridges, did a 10% water change and continued topping up etc. All Zoa's were open again within the week.

    TDS meter always read 0-1 ppm -> must have been something getting through that irritated them.

    Cheers,
    Greg

  7. #7
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    good idea, check your RODI unit.

    because they are all closed i am more inclined to think it is a water quality issue rather than a predator. though in an advanced infestation all the polyps may be closed, it usually builds up over time as the predators reproduces.


    any change?
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

  8. #8
    ijo
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    I've had many zoo rocks and from experience...Its more than likely a water quality issue.... if the water is fine... they should open back up within a day. Are these zoo's new rocks?

    IJO

  9. #9
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    yeah i have changed 10g since saturday and things are starting to look at little bit better, some polyps are slowly opening. Not sure what went on but hope things will come around... I just find it odd that this is the only thing that is having problems, everything else doing great!... i'm going to change another 5g tonight and change carbon and gfo again this weekend and see where we are from there. No ivan... haven't added any rocks to my tank since december perhaps... and when i add rocks i always use base rock and cure them myself to avoid aiptasia, hair alage bubble algae etc...

    Will keep you posted.

  10. #10
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    Have you double checked all your readings with different test kits or equipment? If your thermometer is defective, your temp could be way off, or your hydrometer if you use one could be way off like mine is.

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