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  1. #1
    Senior Member Blakes's Avatar
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    Large Cyno Outbreak-->help!!!

    I have been battling a large cyno outbreak for the last month with only a slow reduction in growth. It started after I noticed that I lost my Pseudochromis porphyreus (Stawberry Dottyback). I never found the body and assumed that all the clean-up crew would have taken care of business. Shortly after this, I noticed a film developing on the rear pane of the the tank and within a blink of the eye it was everywhere. I have tested all water parameters and all are zero. The only thing that I have not checked is phosphate readings (don't have a kit). I have been cleaning the l/r, substrate and glass completly with large water changes (20-30 gallons) with little success. I have added carbon to the filter system, cleaned all filters and increased skimming. To date I have lost my Bubble Coral :b8: and have signs of stress to all remaining coral.

    1. Red/green brain showing signs of death (edges are going white)
    2. All Mushrooms are closed
    3. Hammer Coral (frag) closed
    4. Long Tentacle Anemone has retracted deep in home (have been feeding)
    5. Two Green Star Polyp colonies are happy as can be?
    6. All remaining fish are healthy and feeding normally
    I have researched this on the Internet and found suggested causes being from low Ph of water too temperature drop from summer temperatures for those who do not regulate properly during hot ambient conditions. I found that I fell into both suggested causes. I haven't set-up my sump yet to allow fan cooling of the tank and my PH did drop to 8.1. I have been added Kalk. to the system nightly to bring-up the PH.

    Today I have removed, cleaned and re-positioned all corals and liverock. Substrate has also been cleaned with another large water change. Any other suggestions? I do not want to add chemicals to the system and would rather find the cause since it has become very frustrating and expensive.

    I will be adding my sump and refugium along with additional lighting after Christmas.

  2. #2
    Senior Member reefsurfer's Avatar
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    If your large water changes are done without RODI water your possibly feeding the cyano...

    PH of 8.1 is fine.

    Doing large water changes can be bad, what percentage of your system is 30 gallons?

    Prety sure cold water is more eazily saturated with oxigen so technicaly a drop in temp means an increase in O2...

    HTH
    PLEASE SEND ALL ACROPORA FRAGS TO THE REEFSURFER

  3. #3
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    CYANO is fuelled by CO2 and PO4, you need to find and remove the source of PO4, then you can use a PO4 remover ( i like Rowaphos ) to get rid of what is already in your tank.

    you also need to adjust or add flow to remove "dead" spots by bringing oxygenated water to depleted areas.



    what water are you using??

    how much flow do you have in the tank??

    do you have a reactor??
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


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  4. #4
    Senior Member Blakes's Avatar
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    Unfortunatley, I'am still using tap water and will not be able to purchase a R.O. unit until late Winter. I have been using this water with no issues for a few years on different tank set-ups with no issues (I know L/R can absorb and store some nasty stuff and then slowly release over time). Water circulation is not perfect, presently running two cannisters (empty & clean) and one power head. After Christmas the cannisters will go, sump will be running and 2 more power heads will be added. I do not have a reactor so no Co2 leakage has occured. I manually drip Kalk. mix. The total tank volumn is 140 gallons. I will look into availability of Rowaphos as suggested.

    Thanks

  5. #5
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    are you running a skimmer?


    with no reactor try running the PO4 remover in one of the canister filters, maybe in a sock if you have to. Rowa is $$$ but works great IMO, maybe others can suggest another brand too.

    without removing the PO4 source, you could be spending a lot on remover and never win. you'll also need to adjust the flow you have to try and remove "dead" spots. CYANO loves low flow area were it can get all the CO2 it wants. the CO2 i am talking about is not from a Ca reactor but a by product of photosynthesis, which can be countered once you have your sump / fuge set up.

    HTH
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


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  6. #6
    Senior Member
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    we need to know more about your system. so far no sump and no RO/DI
    and possibly no skimmer. you have 3 strikes against you. tap water fluctuates constantly with the seasons so its not good to use for a reef tank.
    your now seeing the balance change after a few years of this practise. the sandbed and liverock are probally full of built up nutrients.

    FISH. how many and what size tank?? overfeeding and overbioload is the number ONE reason for nuisance algeas and cyno.

    FLOW. what are you using for current.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Blakes's Avatar
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    Well, I have a fourth strike against me, since I have been using a crappy modified Red Sea Prizm as a skimmer. This skimmer has been filling it's cup with skimate every 2-3 days. This tank has been operating since July with 50lbs of new cured l/r and the remaining coming from my old 60 gallon set-up. The tank is a 6' long 140 gallon set-up with a very small bio load.
    • Two Standard Clowns
    • Two Sebae Clowns
    • Hippo Tang
    • Cleaner shrimp
    • Snails & hermits
    • Two small colonies of green star polyps
    • Leather umbrella coral
    • Mushrooms
    • dying brain coral
    • small Long Tentacle Anemone

    I know it sounds bad, since I actually do know what I'am doing. The upgrade to the larger tank absorbed more money than planned and its been a rather tight year:b12:. I have a shopping list and know that all area's need attention asap. Most will come after Christmas but right now I need to get this under control. I have added a phosphate absorbing material to the system and will continue water changes until eliminated. Believe me I get as frustrated as you do when people do stupid things like using tap water. Thanks

  8. #8
    Senior Member
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    skip the water changes! there probaly only fueling the issue. what and how much do you feed? cut it back to every third day.
    if you don't have much in the way of corals cut your lighting back to about 6 hours for now,if you have rocks that can come out of the tank then do this and brush them with a nylon brush [tooth brush] in some salt water.
    it will go away. you also don't seem to have many corals correct? you could try one of the cyno products to get rid of it. but follow directions.
    normaly in a full blown reef tank I don't like to use any chemicals but you will be okay.

  9. #9
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    I agree you may be adding Phosphates from the water source. But you may also just be horribly low on filtration. How much live rock do you have in total? 2 pairs of clowns in a 140 is iffy. What are standard clowns? Do you mean Ocellaris? Do you have a test kit? My experience with cyano is that lighting means nothing and flow means little. I have tons of flow in my tank and I still battled cyano. Which I was able to recover from just by going back to my regular water change schedule. And siphoning out as much as I can. I'm also on tap water so I feel for you. Although I'm on a well not a municipal supply. I made a tool for scrubbing the rocks / siphoning. I just attached a tooth brush to an old cleaning stick thingy I had laying around and taped a piece of tubing to it. I'd start a siphon and scrub / siphon the cyano away. The problem with scrubbing in the tank normally is you get it floating around and wherever it lands it grows. High flow or not it will land eventually.

  10. #10
    Sponsor - Ottawa Inverts
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    What phosphate removing media are you using?
    There is a huge difference between brands and types.
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