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  1. #1
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    Coil Denitrator - Started up today...

    Well, I DIYed a Coil Denitrator about a month ago, and finally got off my arse and installed it today.

    I won't have any results for a while yet, as it will need to 'cycle' for several weeks. I will however document my progress for everyone to see.

    Right now, I adjusted the ball valve on the output effluent to be 1 drop every 2 secs. As it 'cycles', I will need to open it up more and more until it's full open.
    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

  2. #2
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    I have never heard of a coil denitrator. What is it and what does it do?

    Thanks

    Vickie

  3. #3
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    Hi Vickie,

    Here's an explanation I grabbed from another site... (I was too lazy to type it myself... )

    A coil De-Nitrator is NNR (Natural Nitrate Reducer). Works much in the same way as a deep sand bed.
    O2 rich water enters the top of the unit and is then forced to spiral down through the coiled tubing, (usually 1/4"), until exiting within the bottom center of the chamber. As the water level increases within the body of the unit, the Bio-Balls soon become host to millions of colonies of bacteria that proceed to multiply. As the water reaches the top of the chamber, it exits through the output fitting, not internally fitted to the coiled tubing.

    Basically, as the water makes it way down through the coiled tubing, the O2 (oxygen) is consumed by the AEROBIC (nitrosomonas & nitrobacter) bacteria, the same ones that are in your filter plumbing and walls of the tank. These bacteria convert ammonia into nitrite and then into nitrate. This process uses O2 and the levels of O2 diminishes.

    Now what? Well, now the ANAEROBIC bacteria begin to flourish in this O2 deprived water. They consume nitrate, not O2. As the water continues to travel it encounters the main interior of the chamber. This is where all the round Bio-Balls provide a high surface area for the ANAEROBIC bacteria to colonize.

    At this point there is one last detail... a proper drip rate. A proper drip rate is needed to maintain the dwell-time within the unit (basically the flow rate of the water and the time it stays within the chamber) so the bacteria can consume the nitrates. Too fast a flow or drip rate and your tests will show nitrates (as the bacteria have too much O2). Too slow a drip or flow rate and Hydrogen Sulfides are produced. Hydrogen Sulfide can be identified as that rotten-egg smell. Presence of Hydrogen Sulfide indicates trouble to the inhabitants of the reef or fish tank.
    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

  4. #4
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    Now I know what you wanted bio balls for!

    If this works, then people won't need a dsb with all the risks of it causing a crash. I will be watching this thread to see how you make out.

    I believe that it is not one method, lr, dsb, macroalage, etc but the total of all the methods that reduces the most nutrients.

    I'm going to do some searches on this to learn more.

    Thanks
    Vickie

  5. #5
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    hehehe... Yup, That's what I wanted the Bioballs for..
    Thanks again Vickie!!!
    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

  6. #6
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    Actually, Coil Denitrators are nothing new... It's an old idea that's recently making a comeback.
    I thought I'd try it out and see what happens.

    I agree wholeheartedly with you Vickie. Indeed it's not but one idea, but the combination of all good ones that make it work out.
    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

  7. #7
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    My husband is interested in this now. Have you posted a picture/drawing, etc. How are you controlling the drip rate?

    Thanks

    Vickie

  8. #8
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    Hi Vickie,

    Here's a drawing that I found on the 'net. I basically followed this, however instead of using clear extruded 4" tubing and acrylic for the top and bottom, I made mine out of 4" PVC tube and 2 PVC endcaps.




    I used speedfit (John Guest) fittings throughout, and to control the driprate, I used a 1/4" Speedfit ballvalve.
    As the unit cycles, you can eventually do away with the ballvalve, as you can run the unit full open.
    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

  9. #9
    liv
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    Former Moderator liv's Avatar
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    what type of pump are you using to power it up ?
    simple powerhead ?
    and how high is yours ? any specs needed on the internal tubing.. like lenght to be used or ratios ?

    I found a link on the net.. that gives out more details..
    http://www.aloha.net/~hqf/indexdondenitrator.htm

    moving.. so temporarily out of SW :b8:
    planning next tank, possibly 60x30x20 on 2x plasma.
    updated: 2011/05/30

  10. #10
    Senior Member tang_man_montreal's Avatar
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    Hi Liv,

    No pump is needed if you have a sump. Just gravity feed from the display tank into the Denitrator, and then from the denitrator into the sump. If you don't have a sump, then you'll need a small powerhead (like a maxijet400) to provide the unit with water.
    I've read where people using dosing pumps on these. But again, if you have a sump, there is no need.
    Mine is 22" tall, with 75ft of 1/4" rigid tubing. Filled with Bioballs, and permanently sealed.
    I am Homer of BORG... Prepare to be..OOOO!! DONUT!!!!!!

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