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  1. #1
    Senior Member Marty's Avatar
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    Plumbing advise for new tank

    I'm looking for suggestions / feedback on plumbing options for my new tank. I need to plumb a closed loop and a return from the sump.
    This is what I had in mind for the closed loop:
    I will have two 2.5" ID bulkheads (two top holes in the glass panel) that will be joined together with a Y fitting and then connect to the intake to a Sequence Hammerhead pump. I would use Spa flex to the pump and from the pump up to the top of the light hood where I would have a 2.5" PVC manifold pipe suspended from the ceiling. From this 2.5" manifold, I was thinking of installing two "T" fittings at one end and a single "T" at the far end where I would reduce to 1.5 inch fittings and use Spa flex to connect to Reef Rats down the road. The first two "T" fittings would be plumbed inline so that I woud have one output from each one and the one on the end would cap the end of the pipe and have two outputs. I'm also wondering about the location of the pump... is it better to have the pump on the ground to reduce vibrations but have a higher head loss, or would it be better to install the pump on a shelf at the same height as the closed loop inputs?

    Now for my return pump: there is a third bulhead that will be installed below the two closed loop intakes for a spray bar type return that will be hidden in the rock work. I had intended to plumb my return pump (Mag 12 for the moment) from the sump to this spray bar but I'd have to plumb a loop above the top of the tank with an anti-siphon valve above the water level. Is this a bad idea or can it work?

    I think this will work but I'd like to get your input to see if it can be improved or if I have overlooked something important.

    Thanks,

    Marty

  2. #2
    Senior Member Marty's Avatar
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    Back of tank & overflow

    Here's a picture of the other side of the tank.

  3. #3
    Moderator cres's Avatar
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    I will comment that you will have minimal head loss by placing the pump on a solid floor with padding. As long as you aren't adding many feet extra plumbing, the only head loss will be friction. The head the pump faces is the distance from the surface of your sump, to the surface of your display tank, or output if the output isn't submerged.
    Sarchasm: The gulf between the author of sarcastic wit and the person who doesn't get it.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Marty's Avatar
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    Having the pump on the floor is my prefered option. I will have the pump on a layer of padding or rubber feet to reduce vibrations. There will be approx 7 feet from the pump to the manifold but it will only be 2-3 feet above the tanks water level.

    Thanks Cres

  5. #5
    Moderator cres's Avatar
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    Now, will your outputs be submerged or open near the water surface?

    If so, you "recover" the 2-3 feet, the water drops inside the plumbing. I assume you won't be dropping from 2-3 feet through the air, so, it should be fine.
    (I just re-read the "manifold" portion. Should be okay. Just make sure you a) have room for it all to drain, b) have check valves to prevent it. )
    Sarchasm: The gulf between the author of sarcastic wit and the person who doesn't get it.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Marty's Avatar
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    Yes, the closed loop outputs will be coming down about 2 feet from the larger manifold pipe and will eventually be connected to Reef Rats. I don't think I will need check valves on these as there should be no syphon effect as all outputs are submerged and on a loop.

  7. #7
    Senior Member ABahn's Avatar
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    Hey Marty,
    Nice pics. No we can analyse the system!
    First off, you definitely want to use spa flex here. Looks like you'll be avoiding many 90s going from inlets, down to pump and then back up to the output manifold.
    I see now your idea of three viewable sides, if it were not the case, you could have put the spraybar return on the other side. You obviously cant do that unless you wouldve put a hole in the bottom of the tank which is kinda crazy.

    I hope you will put a big nasty check valve on your spraybar output manifold. Will it be a straight pipe travelling down the bottom of the tank lengthwise with holes pointing up to rocks?

    The closed loop inlets are o.k. I wouldve drilled more to the sides and avoid the middle. No worries, as its and end piece anyway.

    I'd definitely plumb two rats down the far side instead blowing back towards the overflow. Another two at the near end wouldnt be overkill, so keep in mind for plumbing provisions.

    Keep the pump on the ground.

    Why dont you sketch out your plumbing and manifolds???? We'll take it one step further.....

    Hey, are your middle holes o.k. to plumb? The middle overflow, and spraybar return are smack in the middle I noticed. I guess you have plenty of room back there..

    Otto

  8. #8
    Senior Member Marty's Avatar
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    I will definately have a lot of plumbing crammed into a small area below the overflow. I will be a close fit and I might have to use a couple 45's on the centre overflow return but I'm hoping that the fittings at the spraybar return will fit. The spraybar return will go along the bottom to the far end just as you had described. I don't know that I'd want to trust a check valve to keep water from returning to the sump during a power outatge so I was thinking of setting up a loop from the return pump that would go above the water level in the tank and then have an anti-syphon hole to keep the sump from flooding. Another option would be to incorporate the spraybar as part of the closed loop and have the return pump connected to a Rat at the far end of the tank.
    Good point about the positionning of the rats.. I'll have to keep that in mind. I will try to come up with some sort of sketch of the plumbing but I'll have to try that at work tomorrow if I can find some time.
    Thanks,

    Marty

  9. #9
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    Maybe ???

    Marty .. If you can address the noise (which I think is doable) why not put the pump right in that cab at just a few inches below the 2 intakes that will service it? This will cut your pump head in half and reduce the amount of piping you will have to buy for the project. You manifold can even be at it full DIA right from the output side of the pump.
    Rob

  10. #10
    Senior Member ReefVan's Avatar
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    Marty,

    The closed loop sounds good... I'd think twice about the submerged spray bar... was thinking the same thing for my 210 until Greg and a few others asked me how I was gonna clean it out when it clogged or was inhabited by big bristleworms...

    I've given up on that idea and generally will concentrate on flow at different levels with closed loop Rats... :thumb:

    As for the Hammerhead... on the ground is fine.. the loss will be negligible.
    It's not junk, it's un-assembled DIY!

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