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Thread: Raising my PH?

  1. #1
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    Raising my PH?

    I have a Ca level of 700-I know this is still high, Working it out with water changes, My KH is 12 and still my pH is hovering at 7.7-7.9? Anyone have any idea what may cause this. Can it be a Buffer problem with this high a level of Ca? I'm running Di water for water changes and top offs. I have plenty of circulation do I doubt it is a C02 issue in the water, and i have 0 for Nitrates and Nitrites, and NH3, P04 is now at 0. My only idea is to get an ORP meter to check the water? any ideas where to get a good Mg test kit? I wonder if i should supplement with NaHC03 to help buffer the system?

  2. #2
    liv
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    Former Moderator liv's Avatar
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    how are you testing for CA ?
    at 700, it would/should be snowing in your tank.

    moving.. so temporarily out of SW :b8:
    planning next tank, possibly 60x30x20 on 2x plasma.
    updated: 2011/05/30

  3. #3
    liv
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    also, are u dosing kalkwasser ?
    co2.. are u using a calcium reactor ? if so, then yes this can have a major impact on your ph. if you are really at 700.. stop the ca reactor for a while. this will lower ca and should raise your ph at the same time.

    moving.. so temporarily out of SW :b8:
    planning next tank, possibly 60x30x20 on 2x plasma.
    updated: 2011/05/30

  4. #4
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    at this time of year with our houses ( newer ones are sealed very well too )sealed up tight against the elements, it is not uncommon for CO2 levels to rise in our house and subsequently our aquariums. and just because you have a lot of flow doesn't mean the water is being aerated, do you run a skimmer?

    an easy test to see if there is to much CO2 in your home ( for the fish ) is to take a sample of water from your tank and run an air stone in it for an hour, then test the pH. if the pH rises then you have an aeration problem with the tank. if there is no change take another sample but run this one outdoors. if the pH rises then you may want to look into an air exchanger or open a window every once in a while.

    other than the CO2, how are you measuring pH, Alk, Ca and Mg?

    these 4 are related ( Alk and pH, even closer ) and if one is out of whack the others usually are too. but i think pH usually goes up when you have high Alk not down.
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
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    I am testing the Ca2+ by titration and its good, cross checked with culiigan water samples. Yes the Ca++ is 800ppm, down from 1200 last month. No I am not dosing, Naturally high amounts coming from water, even through the DI water....and evaporation causes the number to creep. I was using this setup in a fresh water tank and after 1 year had 1300ppm Ca++ in cichlid tank. I do Skim, and have not noticed a difference in the pH between on and off cycles. My house is by no means air tight, I have a fresh source of cold wind through the window and door in the family room. To measure all parameters i am using a Tetra laborett kit and also have confirmed the KH results from a TDS unit from work. I have no Mg test kit. The KH is quite high. The only thing i can think of is the DI water holding tank and lines absorbing C02(carbonic acid) I will try to do a aeration test in a unused portion of the house, the only thing about this is at a different temperature the amount of dissolved C02 and 02 change drastically rendering this test in accurate.

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    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by westmeath View Post
    Naturally high amounts coming from water, even through the DI water....and evaporation causes the number to creep.

    this is not right, the TDS after the DI stage should be zero. seeing as you have a TDS meter at work, take a sample from after the RO unit and one after the DI stage in and test them.

    Quote Originally Posted by westmeath View Post
    the only thing about this is at a different temperature the amount of dissolved C02 and 02 change drastically rendering this test in accurate.
    then let the outdoor sample come back up to room temperature before testing
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


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  7. #7
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    tds

    The TDS after the Ro unit is 130ppm, the raw water source for the ro unit is 1200ppm.

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    Where the hell do you live. And please tell me you don't drink the water. Also something is off with your calculations. With an alk level of 12 and calcium of 800-1200 it would look like the blizzard outside in your tank. Something is not adding up. What test kit are you using. And how are you adding cal and alk to your tank?
    Jason

  9. #9
    Senior Member steve w.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by westmeath View Post
    The TDS after the Ro unit is 130ppm, the raw water source for the ro unit is 1200ppm.
    In case your misreading or have a faulty meter,mine is

    tap 229

    Rainfresh water filter(Canadian tire)203

    Aquasafe rodi 003

    that going to be more in the ballpark,

    ps...I'm NOT on a well.
    100G Reef
    Purple,Blue,Yellow and Sailfin Tangs.Damsel,Clown and Coral Beauty,Fosters Hawkfish.
    Many mixed corals and clams.
    65G fuge in basement.
    Mag 24 return,RODI,2 Phosban reactors and UV.
    620w in DT.

  10. #10
    Former Moderator a4twenty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by westmeath View Post
    The TDS after the Ro unit is 130ppm, the raw water source for the ro unit is 1200ppm.
    you're on a well right? ( you must be )

    are you running the water ( before the RODI ) through a water softener? ,that should remove the Ca and Mg and bring your TDS way down.


    if those readings are correct then i would say your RO membrane is shot but with 1200ppm coming in i'm not surprised.
    `

    120S RR tank with 60G basement sump / fuge

    Return Pump: Little Giant 4-MDQX SC
    Water Movement: MP40W, Seio 1500, (2) Hydor K4's
    Lighting: 400W SE MH with 10K Venture
    Skimmer: Euro-Reef RS250 with gate valve
    Other: RODI, RDSB, PO4/AC reactor


    My Gallery

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